7ED20TKXDN00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions
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End caps on refrigerator broke
First I removed the end caps off of the front piece and put the new end caps on the front piece and put it back on the refrigerator door.
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Ethel from Massapequa Park, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
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Bearings were going out
The refrigerator would make loud sounds humming sounds periodically. The bearings were going out on the evaporator motor. Emptied the freezer side of fridge. Unplugged unit. Took shroud off (6 screws). Removed the three wire clips. Pulled fan off shaft. Carefully pushed plastic strap to remove motor. Replaced with new motor. Carefully attached strap to hold motor. This seems very fragile so be very carefull to attach properly and not break. Reverse the rest and done in less than 15 minutes. 30 minutes cleaning the fridge.
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Doug from North Logan, UT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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Loud thud when door opened.
Remove all items from the door shelves. Removed the top hinge cover and removed hinge mounting screws. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid it on its side. I then replaced bottom hinge cam by removing (1) cap screw. Very simple job.
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Floyd from Rushville, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
4 of 4 people
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broker cover to crisper
the piece fit perfectly and delivery was within a couple days. very satisfied.
Parts Used:
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dean from los angeles, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 7 people
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had to push door closed
lifted door 1/2 inch and put blocks of wood under the door and replaced the lower hindge cam.
Parts Used:
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peter from portsmouth, RI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Lost shelf support bracket
Ordered shelf support stud kit. Product was promptly delivered, and contained the parts as shown on website. Took longer to open the package than to replace the missing shelf support bracket. No problems. Would order from them again.
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DAVID from LAFAYETTE, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
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3 inches of frost in Fridge, 72 degrees in Fridgerator
First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.
Parts Used:
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Gerald from Orangeburg, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 10 people
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Not cooling properly and had to tap the thermostat to get it to kick on.
My fridge was not cooling properly as I would have to tap the thermostat at times to get it to kick on again. Ordered the temperature control thermostat from this site t and watched video on how to install. Not hard at all and did it in under an hour. Fridge is working like new..
Parts Used:
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dee from FERNANDINA, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Fridge wouldn't turn on unless I hit the thermostat.
Removed old thermostat and replaced with new one. The video link in the shipping email was great - really detailed even though it was a simple fix.
Parts Used:
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Vince from CERRO GORDO, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Erratic refrigerator temperature. Generally too cold - frozen produce.
The repair video was a great help in this specific repair and matched my refrigerator model exactly. The only issue was an apparent design change in the thermostat that I received. The location of the electrical leads has changed. It might be worth mentioning this in the video. Polarity is not an issue in this case, but if it was, it would be worth noting in the video. So far the refrigerator has been operating normally.
Parts Used:
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Dave from BRIDGEWATER, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
Parts Used:
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Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 13 people
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fridge stopped cooling then the freezer
Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,
Parts Used:
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Joseph from DELTONA, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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broke flange
remove old crisper pan
install new crisper pan
dispose of old crisper pan
install new crisper pan
dispose of old crisper pan
Parts Used:
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George from TOMAHAWK, WI
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
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Removed the old parts then connected the new parts.
The compressor immediately started when I plugged the refrigerator back in. Around 24 hours later the freezer compartment was at 0 degrees, and the refrigerator was at 35 degrees.
Parts Used:
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Jonathan from OLIVE BRANCH, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Freezer No Longer Cools
Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.
I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.
I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.
After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.
** Side Notes **
Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.
** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **
If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.
I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.
I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.
After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.
** Side Notes **
Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.
** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **
If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.
Parts Used:
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STEPHEN from FENTON, MO
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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