7WRS25FDBF02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

I tried to replace the light in the fridge first but couldn’t get it out (that one has the control board and is very expensive) so a replaced the one in the freezer by prying it off the ceiling. When I plugged the new one in all the other lights came on full power. Strange but I sent the other one back.

Took off the cover, pulled out the old filter, inserted the new one and closed the door.

Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.

I just slid the new pan in , partselect has the correct part all the time , I repalced my ice maker once and it took 15 min no problem

Remove old tray, replace with new tray.

Simple & easy.

Best part is I ordered on Monday & received on Tuesday!

Using a 1/4" nut driver and a philips screwdriver I removed all the screws in the shelf brackets and coil cover and removed coil cover. Removed fan blade and then faulty motor (held in with clips) Installed new motor-two wires (power) and ground (green) pushed fan blade back on and tested, then reinstalled all panels and shelf brackets.

First off you need to shut off the water supply valve that goes to the icemaker. Next pull the refrigerator from the wall , thats the fun part. I did not unplug my refrigerator when I did this . You can to be extra safe. At the bottom on the back side remove the cardboard cover on the bottom like four or five screws and set this aside. The water valve is on the bottom on the right side. There are 3 water lines attached to it. Having a towel handy might be helpfull. 1 line supplys the water, 1 is for the water dispenser and 1 is for the ice maker. These are push in connections no wrench needed. Remove the 2 screws that attach water valve to frame. Arrange it to make removing the 2 wire connections and water lines easier to remove. Wire connections just pull off. Mark them as to what valve they go to. Next remove the water lines. you need to remove a plastic lock that insures that the water lines do not pop off, very simple. Next push down on the nylon connector push down on the top of connector and pull on the plastic water line at the same time and it will come out. Do this to all 3 water lines. Remove old water valve and install new one in the reverse order. The water lines just push in no need to mess with connector when line is in reinsert the plastic lock. Reconnect the power connections. Align the water valve bracket with screw holes in frame and reattach the 2 screws holding it in place. Now would be a good time to turn on the water and check for leaks. You can check water dipenser but ice maker has a mind of its own. If all is good reinstall the cardboard cover on the back bottom and push refrigerator back where it was. Make sure the water line is not kinked. Aftre a couple of hours the ice maker should start making ice.

I originally ordered the led light control board but when I hooked it up I still had the same problem. My neighbor checked both door switches with a voltmeter and they were both good. I then ordered the light for the freezer and when hooked up the problem was solved. All lights worked. The freezer light has four tabs that allow it to snap into the roof of the freezer. Those tabs can be hard to see because there isn’t much room. I used a mirror to locate the tabs and a small flat tip screwdriver to push the tab over and removed the light.

Just replaced the broken one without using any tools.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

I followed your instructions , the only thing that was left out was that the freezer has a drain hole that had to be thawed out with a hair dryer,till the water went to the drain pan underneath the ref. your instruction were through enough, that's why I purchased the part from your company, I installed the part 2 days ago and its working like new again 23.00 for the part instead of 1200.00 dollars for another ref. thanks very much. 6 months ago I purchased the relay and compressor starter from your company at that time per your instructions I shook the compressor starter and like a light bulb it had something broke inside,I needed that thanks again oomk

The broken part was removed and new part installed without any trouble.

Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!