9046 - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

Simple three steps... 1) There's an front section to the ice-maker to take off. One Phillips screw is on the side, one screw is underneath near the inside of the refrigerator wall. Just unscrew and store. 2) There's a small plastic unit just inside the ice maker to take out. It's held in by a small nut that requires about a 4" extension to reach. (You may be able to unscrew the nut with small needle-nose pliers). Just unscrew and take out the unit - the unit functions just to keep the ice maker wiring in place. 3) The wiring looks a mess, but there's just one wiring connector to the ice maker assembly. Unsnap it. The ice maker is not screwed in, it just slides in -- reach in and pull the assembly straight out; when it stops, lower it a bit and it will come free. Reverse the instructions to install the new unit.

I checked the dampener, it worked. The compressor and fan worked. I knew because my freezer was still hovering around 10 degrees. Coils were clean. Thermistor was the only thing it could be. Took all my shelves out. Removed four screws. Took the back panel off. The thermistor sits tucked in on the side. I piped it out, in clipped it. Used my multimeter to test the numbers. Numbers were off just a bit. Ordered the part. Crossed my fingers.,took less then 5 minutes to put the part in. Plugged in the fridge. It was sitting at 33 degrees in about an hour and a half. I can’t believe I fixed it. I knew NOTHING about refrigerators. For how big my fridge is, it would have cost 3,000 and up to get a new one with the same cu ft size. Instead, it cost me $44. That includes shipping. Thank you Parts Select!! Made it so easy to pick the correct part for my model fridge!

took the cover off
(cardbord) the fan will come off and go back on by hand no tools needed i changed the fan motor just to be sure. 3 little screws hold it on. the plug only goes on one way u can't mess it up.very easy job u shouldn't have any problems doing it.Jim

Was not able to repair. Wasn't rollers I needed. Plastic screw recipients in front on frame had broken out so rollers weren't the problem. Tried gluing back pieces to no avail. Crisper frames are poorly designed.

Pulled the old gasket out if groove on the door, cleaned inside the groove, squirted some windex in the groove to ease the new gasket in the groove, then proceeded to work the gasket into the groove. Made sure gasket was all the way in the groove around the perimeter of the door. Done!

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

It's too easy to describe.

What's more important is that someone read this and see that you can save hundreds of dollars doing this repair yourself. I'm sure many handy people think that about everything they repair, but this repair is insanely easy and the $ savings ridiculous.
When I called the place I purchased the refrigerator from, they were more than happy to sell me the part with a 35% markup (your price was reasonable) and (when i asked) they told me that sending someone to my home to make the repair would cost about $400 ($200 per door) including the "home instal" fee.
I removed the old gaskets and put on the new ones (on both doors) in under 10 minutes. I confess that I did the job under the auspices of my very handy son but he'll agree with everything I just wrote. To the unhandy: go forth and replace your own gaskets.

When removing existing filter you will experience some resistance at the 10-4 position which requires a little extra pressure to reach the 9-3 position.

To confirm my diagnosis I first replace the filter still no water flow.
Check water supply from the wall valve: ok
Remove the entire inlet valve assembly and sit it over a small bucket.
Disconnect the tubing from the bottom of the 1st selenide valve: this is the one leading to the filter.
Place cup under water dispenser and activate dispenser. No water discharge from inlet valve confirm valve is bad.
Install the new valve matching the colored tubing with the color on each inlet valve.
Re-connect the water supply place container under water dispenser and activate: There will be a large gush of air then water. Dispense aprox 1 gallon of water to confirm all the air is purged from the system. Your refrigerator is now back to dispensing water and making ice.
Good luck everyone - Neville

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

determined it was an air leak. Freezer portion has no drain. A fan in back blows air in through vents to keep unit defrosted. There was a gap across the entire top of gasket where it seals up against the frame. Simply pull the old gasket out of its track around the entire door. No tools needed and the door does not need to be removed. Fit the new gasket into the track until it is securely seated around all 4 sides of the door. That's it. I still had a small gap between the top of the door gasket and the freezer frame. The freezer frame may have warped a little over the years. I applied a thin strip of weather stripping to the freezer body where it meets up against the new gasket. That did it.

REPLACED WITH NEW.
HOWEVER, THE WATER FILTER INDICATOR STILL SAYS
'REPLACE'. THERE IS NO LEAKAGE, BUT IT APPEARS LIKE THE NEW CARTRIDGE IS NOT COMPLETELY INSERTED. I'VE TRIED REMOVING AND REPLACING THE NEW CARTRIDGE SEVERAL TIMES, BUT IT STILL SAYS 'REPLACE'.
INCIDENTALLY, THIS WAS THE SECOND ORDER OF THE CARTRIDGE AND LAST TIME I GOT TWO, AND THEY BOTH FIT FINE! WITH THIS ORDER I GOT JUST ONE.

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,