91140161791 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

Removed oven unit from wall. Removed top and back cover. Disconnect the wires from clock control marking them with tape and making a drawing of where the wires are. The back of the replacement control was a little different.The new controller had a place for a convection control which I didn't need. It went pretty well. If your an average repair person. You will have no problem.

Ps, On the old control you can remove the big black caps and look at the coil. Thats when I seen it was bad.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

It was very simple.. first turn off the electricity... next take out the two screws holding the element to the back of the oven... then pull the two plugs apart( male and female ends) ... throw away old part.
put new part in by plugging the male and female ends back together... push back into oven back.. get all insulation back in... put two old screws back in to secure... done.. turn on power...
don't be afraid.. it was very, very easy.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Remove the screws inside the oven holding the back of the element to the rear wall of the oven. These scrrews are a square drive. Pull element forward and remove 2 screws that hold wires in place. Both sets of screws needed to be replaced with a different size. Reverse order to install.

Six screws remove the oven control assembly cover. Four screws remove the control from the cover. A few spade connections to swap to the new unit. And reassemble. Power off during repair, of course. This is control number three. Typical GE quality.

I first removed the broken element by removing the two hexhead screws on either side of the element bracket. Then I gently pulled the wires through the opening and removed two more screws that attached the wiring to the element. I then compared the new and old elements and found a few differences.

First, the screw holes where the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.

Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.

I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.

Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.

It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.

It's so simple most people could mannage the repair. Turn oven off. Remove oven door and shelves. Use a nut driver to remove mounting screws. Pliers to pull quick connect terminated wires off element terminals. Use pliers to push connectors onto new element,wires may connect to either terminal. Nut driver for screws to mechanically mount new element. Replace shelves and door. First time element gets hot it will burn off oils and dirt, not a problem but do it now not later.

1) TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. 2) REMOVED THE TOP DOOR AND RACKS. 3) REMOVED THE 2- 1/4 HEAD HEX NUTS AND PULLED THE ELEMENT FORWARD ENOUGH TO EXPOSE THE ELECTRICAL CLIPS TO THE ELEMENT. REMOVED THE CLIPS WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AS ADDED GRIP. 4) PUT THE WIRE CLIPS ON THE NEW ELEMENT AND REVERSED THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.

[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.

[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.

Removed burned out element and discovered replacement element had a different back plate and different hole pattern. Also, the electical connecttion from power wires to ends of element were a TOTALLY different size, both in hole size and size of material that hole was placed. This tood a lot of slow increasing the size of the hole time. Also, the backplate was a different size with a two hole pattern at the top of the plate, as oppossed to the original plate with holes centered at the sides of the plate. Had to drill holes in back oven wall higher than I wanted, as the oven wall had a depression in the back wall and I could not drill at that point. By drilling holes that were higher than previous holes, there was now a 1/2" opening at the bottom of this plate. Used a hack saw and cut off a piece of the old plate to slip underneath, then screwed in the new plate, thus filling the remaining opening, and securing the additional hand made additional plate. This was a lot more than I had bargain for, and when I turned on the oven, it did not work! I re-checked the connection of the power wires to the grid element and found one of the connections to be disconnected. Reconnected this wire and everything is just ducky now.

Shut off the power from the fuse box. Removed p the two screws and plate that attach the element to the wires and back of oven. Installed the replacement element by attaching the wires and reinserting the two screws. Restored power and tested the new element by preheating the oven at 350 degrees and letting it heat for 15 minutes. Works like a charm!

took old unit and measured it part select made it easy for me ordered new unit and installed easily and quick thanks to quick service and shipping