91146394300 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

turn off the power at the breaker first

remove the 2 screws under the 'lip' of the stove top (open the oven door to get to them)

prop up the stove top on the cardboard box the part came in

pull off the wires one by one and attach to the new burner OR record where each wire goes first

remove the old burner (2 screws) and attach the new burner

screw down the stove top

try the burner - when it does not work flip the power breaker back on and then try again

bask in the joy, admiration and wonder directed your way by various family members

Dear PartSelect:

I am very impressed by your service and company. My order arrived in less than 24 hours. It was a perfect match and is currently in service. I am very satisfied with the entire experience and will use your company again.

I simply opened up the cooktop with a screwdriver and disconnected the wires to the affected burner. After the part arrived, I reconnected them. I had to swap over two brackets from the old burner, so don't throw it away until the new one arrives. It went back together very easily and worked immediately.

Matt Brennan

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

** You must have a T-20 security torx bit to replace the element. I used Sears Model 25702 **

Slide out range

Unplug range

Remove two hex-head screws on power access panel, remove panel

Behind the main power connections, locate the four wires connecting to the lower bake element. They are horizontal, left to right , orange, yellow, two red. Note the order and pull wires straight back to disconnect the spade connectors

Slide range back

Remove top security torx screws and bottom hex head screws holding the element.

Pull element straight out

Transfer the gasket from the old element to the new one

Push new element straight back into place

Fasten the torx and hex head screws

Slide the range out

Reconnect the 4 wires

Close the power access panel, fasten the two hex screws

Plug range in

Slide range back

Locate breaker box and turn off breaker to stove. Removed the two screw in front that hold the top in place. Raised the top and supported it with the box the new burner came in. Removed two screws that held the burner in place and the 5 wires one at a time an installed them on the new burner. Put new burner in place and installed two mounting screws. Reinstalled the two screws in the front to hold the top in place then turned the breaker back on and tested burner. Worked great. Received part in 2 days.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

I simply removed the 2 anchor screws in front of the stove and wrote down the wiring order on the instillation diagram, removed the old burner, removed the two studs, made sure they were installed on the right numbers place them in the new burner, wired the new burner, placed the springs respectively. Placed them in the correct holes in the frame to be sure that the burner was aligned properly. Put the washers on the studs and replaced the frame screws, lowered the cook top and returned the screws to lock the cook top in place.

Followed the example picture on the part bag. Anyone could do this, incredibly easy. Took about 4 minutes to install both sides.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

it was a simple screw in on both ends. no soldering

Remove the back cover screws and remove back/top. Locate the thermostat and remove the two Phillip screws. Cut off old scorched terminals and replace with new terminal connectors on the wire ends and install new thermostat and reassemble.

After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I had viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws