AB1924PEKS Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.

Removed the drawers and shelf unit above the shelves. Installed the new rail and put the shelf unit and drawers back in. Less than 5 minute repair. Very fast delivery of part and reasonable pricing.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Ok, pretty easy repair when the parts are correct (first part was faulty, parts select quickly sent me a new one)

First is removal, these tubes are in there very tight, they can be pulled out but weaken the lines and it is not likely to work without severly stretching the line to the point of breakage, if you have to cut them do so carefully and take off as little tubing as possible as you need the length to feed from top to bottom.

Once you have cut all the lines, or pulled them out (I was able to get 2 out without cutting) then make sure the edges are smooth, attach the inlet valve to the plate and just push them tightly into the new valve making sure you route the lines correctly.

Turn everything on and run the water line to see if it works. If no leaks, screw it back to the refrigerator and you are good to go. Takes maybe 20 minutes at most.

Found the coils in the freezer frosted up and no cold air getting to the refrig compartment. I first replaced the defrost timer but should have checked with a volt meter as it turned out that it was a thermostat on the coils in the freezer that was faulty, it actually had a visable defect, it was bulged out. I think that this thermostat prevents the defrost heater from over heating the coils. Replaced the defrost timer an this thermostat and all is good now.

I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

Took drawers out, inserted the rail and put the drawers back in and voila. Fixed.

Removed the ice maker. Removed the screws holding the back panel in place. Unplugged the fridge, cut the wires for the defrost thermostat and installed the new thermostat with the connectors provided. For anyone with a similar problem, I would recommend getting a multi-tester and testing the Defrost timer, defrost thermostat, and defrost heater all the same time according to the directions on this site. Then order the parts that are bad and be up and running in no time.

It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.