ADT521PGJ0WS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

Upper rack I had to reuse the old power was assembly but it just snaps into place. Lower rack literally just place on roller track and it was done. No tools required. Extremely satisfied with my purchase. 10/10 recommend!!

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

Pulled out old rack and replaced with new rack.

2 hose clamps, connect the wire with the wire adaptor suppled

Researched what others have posted about on Parts select. That really helped with the diagnosis! Took a chance on a $28 part. Repairman was going to charge $150 just to show up, then diagnose, leave for 2 months while waiting for the part, charge another $150 plus the part to fix…
Just had to pull out dishwasher far enough to take the water supply line off. Then the water inlet solenoid then 2 more screws and a 2 pronged plug reattach water supply then done! 15 minutes MAX!!!

Since I have granite countertops, unscrewed 2 screws on each side of cabinet. Unscrewed the toe plate, unplugged the wire connector, and disconnected the cable
from the door which was held by tie wraps. Pulled out dishwasher about a foot. Unhooked the spring cable to the door, lifted the door out and placed it on a spare table. With door face down on a towel, I unscrewed the screws at the bottom to release the latches, then unscrew the screws that hold the door locked in place. Turned the door on its back face up, wedged a flathead driver to release the settings display, from the body of the door. Separated the 2 panels replaced the foam rubber vent seal. Placed the face face down, reconnected both pieces of the door together pushing down. Rescrewed the bottom to lock the 2 pieces together reinsert the hinges, screwed them in with nutdriver1/4". Grabbed the old gasket, replaced it with new one, sliding it into the groove on the bottom inside of door. Reattached the door to the washer, rehooked the cables to the door, retired with zip ties the cable to the underside of door, reinstalled the wire connector, and re screwed the toe plate. Pushed the dishwasher, leveled, rescrewed into cabinet. Replaced the tub gasket.

Removed old spray arm. Installed new one. New model spray arm doesn’t need metal heat shields.

I took out the old one and simply inserted the replacement. It was an exact replacement part and thus a perfect fit. Dishwasher is working fine now! Cost was around $40 (shipped) which I thought was reasonable.

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light.
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott

Opened the box took the rack out and placed it in the dishwasher. Good as new.

1. Take a picture of the old rack in the dishwasher! Just in case!
2. Remove rail channel end caps and place them on the tabletop on the correct side to make sure you put them back on the correct side.
3. Remove old rack.
4. Carefully snap off the water sprinkling unit. (carefully push down tabs so they don't break).
5. Using your picture as a reference (!) snap the water sprinkling unit on the new rack (it's easy).
6. Put the new rack back onto the rail channel and replace the end caps.

Done! Very easy installation ! Rack was not nearly as expensive as I anticipated and was delivered quickly. Note: You get the rack only. All ot the other parts are from the old unit.

youtube youtube youtube!
No videos for the exact unit, but I got the gist from one video which included the trick of holding the door hinge springs in place with allen wrenches, while the door slid up and away for access to the gasket. I also had to pull the unit out from under the counter by about a foot. No need to disconnect anything. Good luck.

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.