AEM677L2 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

The parts to replace were mounted to the rear wall of the dryer and only the front pane is removeable. With the panel removed the drum had to be pulled carefully straight out. The belt and tention arm were difficult to reposition. Since you have the appliance apart replace both roller and roller support brackets one of which you cannot see from the front. Throughly vaccum all lint and roller wheel debris . If you have an air compressor take the time to blow out the motor . Make sure to rig a device to hold the tention arm back with the belt correctly aligned while sliding the drum back into place. PARTSLECT is great , easy to use and suggests other parts I may not have thought of and quick . Parts were here in 2 days standard shipping. I was in the dog house for putting this off too long. My wife is happy so I'm happy.

First I remove the two scews from the bottom panel of dryer to remove it. Then remove the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 20 inches and disconnected the two wires and re-connected to new element re-installed it. The dryer works like its brand new. No problem to install at all.

First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the bottom front panel. Then the door I marked the wires to the shut off switch on the door and removed the switch from the door. Next was the lint screen housing and duct work that goes to it. Then I had to reach under the drum and take the belt off of the motor pully and tensioner so I could remove the drum. I removed the drum. I then marked all the wires I had to disconnect. I took the fan housing front panel off. I held the belt drive end of the motor shaft with the pipe wrench, i could have used an open end or an adjustable wrench also. I used a 7/8 six sided socket on the plastic fan nut on the front of the shaft so that if it was hard to loosen I would have a better chance of not rounding the nut. I removed the fan and the back of the housing, unplugged the motor, and removed it. The clips that hold the motor to the motor bracket are a little tricky, I used a screw driver to remove them. I then replaced the motor and put everything back together. One hint you should know is to make sure you mark the drum front so when you put it back in you get it right the first time. I fits in both ways and will go back together but it won't turn free and you'll have to take it all apart again. I tried it by hand both ways and was able to catch the mistake before I put it all back together, but I could have put it together wrong.

My husband removed the two screws that hold the element in place. He pulled out the old element, and replace it with the new one. Cleaning out all the lint and replacing the element took about 45 minutes.

I ordered the complete heating element, which included all three parts. My husband removed the defective one, and replaced it with the new one, and the dryer works better than ever!

First I removed the bottom front cover attached with two screws, then the main front cover attached with two screws. I then removed two more screws holding the top in place, detached three wires and raised the top lid. I held the top lid out of the way with a cord tied off to a cabinet above. I then removed four screws holding the front support panel in place and set it to the side with wires still attahced. Then I slid the dryer belt off the drum and removed the drum. Next I removed the cover of the fan wheel by removing several screws. This allowed me to unscrew the fan wheel (reverse threaded) by anchoring the motor shaft with a wrench and using a large socket to turn the nut end of the fan wheel (then was no snap ring). I then popped off the two clamps holding the motor in place and removed the motor. The only tricky part about assembly was putting the belt back on the pulleys once the drum was installed. You can't see the pulleys once the drum is installed so it is done by feel.

Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit

PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

I looked at your on-line diagrams (exploded views) and basically used them as dis-assembly info.

I removed the bottom panel, followed by the front panel, the drum holders and drum.

Toughest part was the spring clips holding the motor in place,,,, but notes on your site from other folks doing the same motor replacement solved that one,,,,,, I used a flat bladed screwdriver and pliers to manipulate the clips both off and on

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--

I was somewhat intimidated by the fact that dryers are all repaired from the front. Pulling out the drum seemed scary at first, but that turned out to be very easy. After removing the front panel and lint shroud it is easy to reach the idler pulley and take the tension off the belt. If you're going to replace the rollers which is generally the cause of the noise, get new retaining wrings and a decent pair of pliers for them. The rings can lose all their spring easily by strechting them too far to get them off. Replace the idler pulley and belt while you have the dryer apart. Vacuum all the lint out of there and you're good to go.

Removal of the entire 2 front panels
Removal of the heat exchanger into the drum
Removal and replacement of the belt
Reinstallation of the heat exchanger, and both front panels

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.

First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

Watch the video. Very, very easy