AER5715QCB Amana Range - Instructions
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broken bake element
removed bottom pan cover. removed broken element. replaced with new one.. simple. would buy from this place again. shipped super fast
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sandra from ROCHESTER, MN
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Oven wouldn't heat past 165 degrees
First things first...Unplug the unit...Then remove the center plate from the back of the oven (one screw) and take clips off element. Then on the inside, there are 2 screws near the back on the bottom panel. These were rusted on pretty good, so that's where the vice grips came into play. The entire job would've gone much faster, if I wasn't fighting with these 2 screws...After you remove the screws, tilt up bottom panel and remove. Then you just remove 1 rear screw & 2 bottom screws and slide out the old element. Slide the new one in, secure it with the screws and screw the bottom panel back into place. Go to the rear of the oven, slide the 2 clips on the element and screw rear plate back on. Plug the oven back in and that's it...
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Joe from BOYNTON BEACH, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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light would stay on all the time saying burner was on although it wasn`t
unplugged power took the back panel off unplugged the 5 wires removed knob by grabbing and pulling off took two screws out of front panel removed the switched put new switch in place and reversed the procedure went very smooth know problem at all any one with any kind of ability should change this switch in know time at all
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Joseph F Gott from FELTON, DE
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Bake element burnt out
After removing element cover off with Phillips screw driver, found a little screw in bottom of oven. Couldn't find where that came from. Removed two screws from element bracket from floor of oven and one holding in the back wall. Most difficult was pulling the old element out of the electrical clamps and hoping the wire would not pop back into the insulation/ and replacing with the new bracket. That is where my hemostat came handy as pliers were too big and the hemostats stabilized the connection without it popping back into the oven. What was really astonishing was the new element and floor bracket DID NOT line up with the screw holes in the bottom of the oven. Could not adjust/move bracket as some of the element was "clawed?" on the bracket and feared I would damage it. Thus I now have two extra screws along with the one found on floor of the oven. Replaced cover and it currently heats nicely.
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Carol from QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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phillip from Farmington, NM
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Oven would not heat
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.
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francis from mount holley, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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Georgene from Rock City, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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Burner control knob/switch shaft had broken off.
Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.
Parts Used:
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Steve from San Luis Obispo, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 8 people
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Shattered inside glass when attempted to self-clean
Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.
Parts Used:
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John from East Sandwich, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
5 of 11 people
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Replace the oven Sensor
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
Mike
Parts Used:
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Michael from Exeter, NH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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Baking Element melted and stopped working
Unplug appliance, unscrew small cover plate in rear. Disconnect wires from old element, may need to use needle nose pliers to wiggle clips off. Open oven door, remove false bottom to expose baking element. Remove baking element. Install new element, connect wires from rear, and replace covers and false bottom. Plug in appliance and test.
Parts Used:
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David from Toledo, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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Oven wouldn't heat
First I removed the oven door, then I removed the three screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I connected the two wires to the new element , replaced the three holding screws and the oven door. ------END-------
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Edward from Riverview, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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oven only got to to 170 degrees
The bake element in this oven is covered by a tray but after locating the screws for that and removing I could see the element was burnt so I just removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) then just reversed the procedure to install. Don't forget to unplug the unit first.
Parts Used:
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ROBERT from FEEDING HILLS, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 6 people
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