CDE7700LW1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

Just opened package and popped the part right in!

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

Just remove and replaced no tools required

All I had to do was pop in the new door catch. Works perfectly.

Very slowly and carefully, you tube videos and schematic very helpful.

I seen a post on your website referring to the exact problem I was having. One of your staff recommended changing the control thermistor, which I did following the U-Tube video link you supplied. The repair went well and the dryer now operates perfectly ! Thanks for the accurate and helpful info.

Unplugged dryer. Removed top panel (2 screws top back of dryer). Removed control panel ( Unplugged from control board and 2 screws) Removed front panel with door ( Unplugged light from control board, door switch at connector, and 4 screws) Removed Control Thermister from dryer exhaust blower housing located bottom front of dryer ( Unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws ) Installed new Control Thermister and replaced all screws and panels in reverse order. Note: Noticed connector for door switch seemed a little loose when connected correctly. Used electrical tape to reinforce connection. Plugged dryer back in and checked operation. Dryer has been used approximately 10 times since repair with no issues.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

Such an easy repair that I should have done months ago. I knew the gasket was failing but kept fixing the old one until it finally broke apart and couldn't be reused. The new gasket installed within minutes and fit perfectly, not to mention I no longer have to deal with it every time I do the laundry.

Very simple. I removed the broken latch with pliers and snapped in the new one in less than 5 minutes.

I called a wonderful friend who diagnosed the problem; ordered the repair part; and fixed it!!!

I replaced the Control Thermistor (part # PS1149368) by removing the two screws on the bottom of the lower panel below the door. You will see the Control Thermistor just below and to the left of the discharge chute. Remove the two screws holding the Control Thermistor in place. Disconnect the two wire and reconnect to new Control Thermistor. Replace screws in reverse order of above.

The new latch easily snapped it into place.