CER3760ACQ Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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F1 code and oven wouldn't operate
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
Parts Used:
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Robbie from Hillsboro, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
11 of 15 people
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Burner not working
First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!
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Warren C from Slidell, LA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
12 of 18 people
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Baked on sauce
Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.
Parts Used:
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Julie from Newnan, GA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
11 of 15 people
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Element Broke
Piece of cake! Took more time to find the screwdriver than it did to replace the element!
Unplugged the stove. Removed 2 screws. Pulled the element out about 2" and disconnected the wires on each end (wires are attached to a metal clip that just pushes on to the end of the element. Threw the old element away. Unpacked the new elements. Connected the wires at each end. Pushed element into place and screwed in 2 screws. Plugged oven/stove back in and voila! That's it!
Unplugged the stove. Removed 2 screws. Pulled the element out about 2" and disconnected the wires on each end (wires are attached to a metal clip that just pushes on to the end of the element. Threw the old element away. Unpacked the new elements. Connected the wires at each end. Pushed element into place and screwed in 2 screws. Plugged oven/stove back in and voila! That's it!
Parts Used:
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Phyllisa from Plain City, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 13 people
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Back heating element stopped working
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.
Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
Parts Used:
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James from Peachtree City, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
9 of 10 people
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1998 oven unit flashing F3
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
Parts Used:
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chris from houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 14 people
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inner glass busted
I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.
Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.
PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.
Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.
PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.
Parts Used:
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robert from orange, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
9 of 11 people
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Bake element stopped working
This was a complete no brainer. The easiest repair I have ever done. Take out the old screws, remove element and replace with new one, replace screws. Took less than 5 minutes :)
Parts Used:
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Melanie from Renton, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
8 of 8 people
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oven would not come up to temp. that was set
Replacing the sensor kit and door gasket was no problem at all, however the baking element was A different story.
The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but
the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance
win and so did I. Oven now works great
The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but
the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance
win and so did I. Oven now works great
Parts Used:
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David from Green Lane, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 8 people
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Front left burner quit after bright flash under glass top
I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect
Parts Used:
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Brian L. from Wilkes-Barre, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
11 of 19 people
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Element Burned out
looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.
Parts Used:
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Buford from Sun City Center, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
9 of 13 people
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Parts Used:
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Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
7 of 7 people
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Inner Galls on door was craked
Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought
Parts Used:
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Randall from Katy, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
8 of 11 people
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Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
Parts Used:
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John from Ashland, OR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
6 of 6 people
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Broil element broke/burned out
I just bought my first condo and sure enough something broke in my oven. I thought "Oh great - I'll need to buy a new one..." After some research and a friend's advice - I was assured that I only needed to replace the broiler element. After researching the issue I googled replacement parts which led me to this web-site. I was amazed how easy and inexpensive it was for me to replace the part. The directions were easy, simple, and spot-on! The instructions that were provided were easy to follow. I also utilized YouTube instructions as well for additional visual guidance. The shipping was super fast and the element was packaged very well. Thank you so much!
Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Woonsocket, RI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 9 people
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