DCVH515GF4WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

Screwed the light bulb into the socket (duh)

Had a repair shop quote 230 for repair . Spent 66 on parts and did the repair in 45 minutes using the instructions from folks on this site . Very happy with results thanks

- Removed two screws at top left and right of door.
- Removed top dryer panel
- Removed two screws holding front panel in place
- Noticed drum slide was missing because front drum bearing was worn away and slide had fallen off.
- Went ahead and removed drum to replace rear drum bearing (probably not needed; should have disassembled it first to discover this). Would have been better to pull drum first (loosen idler pulley and release belt, pull drum straight out) instead of attempting to unscrew bearing. Be sure to note how the idler pulley is set.
- vacuumed tons of lint up
- Replaced bearing (needed a second person for this; drum too big to reach around. be sure to pre-thread the bearing)
- Ordered front drum bearing, waiting to repair it now, should be good after this.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

as per your instructions. The copy of the directions was very hard to read

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

Unplug the dryer. Remove top panel (remove two screws on the upper inside edge of the dryer door). Lift the front panel from front (tabs and slots at the back) and lift off. Remove the front panel (remove a screw from each side - top/front). Front panel sits on two feet at the bottom, tilt it forward from the top and lift it up (careful not to damage the electrical connection at the bottom left side). I found the dryer had another damaged part (plastic guide that the Slide WH and the Drum Slides connected to was badly worn). After ordering the additional part I attached the slides (white and gray) to the guide. Set the front panel back on the two feet and tilt it back into place (you'll need to slightly raise the drum back into position - easy). Replace the two screws that connect the front panel. Replace the top cover. The whole repair took less than 1/2 an hour including the time it took to vacuum out the dust. Total cost, about $35!

Piece of cake, mostly because of the nice exploded drawing that was on the site when ordering the parts, it was easy to identify what was needed and order it.

I will never call a repair man again :-)

The gentleman knew what the problem was, sent the right part, and I looked like I was smart.

Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.

My husband and I had taken apart this dryer before, so the second time was a lot easier. The first time we took it apart it took 2-3 frustrating hours. So, if it's your first time, plan for longer.

1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top.
3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go.
4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum.
5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it.
6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum.
7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description)
8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.

Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.

Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.

With the help of doityourself guy on the internet

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

Used online instructions. Worked well.