DV316LES Dryer - Instructions

this site had a video that documented the process. The cabinet in the video was a little different than mine, but close enough to get me through the process. Unlike the video, my dryer was totally plugged with lint and I suspect that cut the airflow and caused the heater element to overheat and burn out. I cleaned all the lint and replaced the heater element just as the video documented. While I had the dryer apart, I lubed the drum rollers with Lithium grease and once assembled it worked perfect.

I ordered twice from this site. the thermistor was the first order, the fuse was the second order. Turns out the thermistor sent was the WRONG one. When I reassemble the dryer, after 20 minutes the thermistor sent burned up to a crispy chard. The ohms on the wrong part was 12ohms. per the dryer diagnostics the thermistor should have been =<1 ohm. I put in the original part and it worked. The fuse did the trick. the thermistor, not so much. Lesson to be learned is to not rely on this sites parts compatibility information. Look at the specs for your dryer from the manufacturer.

I pretty much followed the provided videos, but didn't remove the drum. That seemed a bit much. I was able to get the heating element out, and replace the Thermal Fuse and Thermostat. Dryer runs and heats like a top now!

Samsung had no servicers available, after over 3 months calling and sending photos and signing papers they sent a refund. Never any advice on repair from Samssung. Saw a video by JEFF OSTIROFF that lfor disassembly and location of heating parts. Gor $40 Samsug service manual that was rather useless. Disassembled and tested thermostat, Thermistor, and heat element. Appeared that HI-HEAT thermistor was open circuit all others OK. Sent for new one, arrived damaged insufficientlyb packed Tested original again out of appliance, tested OK. Got replacement for damaged thermistor and put it in, reassembled and IT WORKED! Notvsure if original thermistor was intermittant, or connection problem was the fault.

After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.

However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.

I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.

However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.

Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.

I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.

Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.

Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.

A month prior to this repair, I took the dryer apart, cleaned the clogged lint out, and replaced the thermistor with a cheap aftermarket part. It lasted a month. Bought this more expensive OEM thermistor, hopefully of a better quality. Realized that I could have gotten to the thermistor from the back by simply removing the vent pipe and carefully reaching through the vent pipe hole to take out the thermistor. Did that this time instead of taking everything apart. Also bought an updated lint screen (aftermarket part). It has better mesh although it doesn't fit quite as perfectly as the original. So we'll see if the OEM thermistor lasts longer. The repair time was mostly spent moving the washer and dryer within a fairly small laundry room. The air lifter really helps.

I looked up the model number online, searching for the heating element. PartSelect not only had the easiest listing online to find the part, but they also offered a very user-friendly video to show you how to make the repair. The price for the part was roughly 10% less than any of the others listed online.

The part arrived in a few days, and I watched the video a few more times before deciding to tackle the project. I followed the video on a laptop sitting next to the dryer. It made the repair so easy. I was done in an hour and took the time to clean all the lint and debris from inside the dryer. I also cleaned the dryer vent from both inside and outside. The dryer works like brand new.

Your videos are that little extra that will keep me buying again and again.

Separated the outer door from inner door, removed glass globe. Replaced the seal

Reassembled

NECESSARY REQUIREMENTS TO DISMANTLE AND TAKE OFF DRYER CASING USING SCREWDRIVER AND NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO REPLACE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THEHEATING ELEMENT CASING.TOOK ME HALF HOUR REPLACED PART AND PROCEDED TO PUT EVERYTHING BCK IN PLACE.PLUGGED BACK INTO SOCKET .whalla IM UP AND RUNNING AGAIN.DIFFICULTY RATING 1 TO 10-3.thanks 4 your support this was not difficult or hard just required TIME & PATIENCE. Thank u once again.THIS SITE IS THE GREATEST.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

I firstly over-ordered parts. The general guidance is check one part and replace if bad, then check the next, etc. I only wanted to do the disassembly once so I ordered all the parts which were involved with generating heat. Turned out the heater duct assembly came with the thermal fuse and thermistor already installed, in addition to the heating element. Once I had the parts, I watched the video which was identified in my parts order. Then I started disassembly. I put screws from each step into their own little container so there was no mixing them up. Everything went exactly as shown in the video, except for the front panel containing the control board. My dryer was slightly different, but still easy to get out. When I had the drum out, the heater duct assemble was easy to remove, one screw only. I transferred connecters from the old duct to the new one-at-a-time to make sure there were no mistakes, then installed the new one with the single screw. Re-assembly went quickly. I plugged it in and, with some hesitation, set it to a short timed cycle and started it. After a few minutes, I hit pause and stuck my hand in the drum and it was warm! The dryer has continued to work since. Repair successful!

I originally called a repair person to come out but that was a total waste of time and money. He removed the front of the dryer claimed there was a dryer sheet causing the problem and put it back together.
Never again!
I watched a youtube video for step by step instructions on how to take the dryer apart.
I took the front door of the dryer off, removed the filter cover and the dryer drum & belt. Removing this was simple and allowed me to see everything I was working on. With the new part in hand, I removed one wire at a time from the non working heat sensor and connected it to the new part. That way I was sure I had the right connections.
I then removed the thermostat making sure to put the new one back in place exactly as the old one.
I then put the drum back in place with the belt securely fastened. I put the cover back on the lint filter and placed the dryer door back on securing it in place. The dryer is now working perfectly. It takes longer to take the dryer apart than to replace the old parts.

See Utube.com

I removed the dryer vent and cover to take a look at the inside of unit. Then I saw that wheel on the pulley was damaged and belt was tangled up. I simply replaced the pulley and placed the belt back. Samsung advised that I replace the unit, but myself $800+ on a new unit.