FDG747GES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
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time knob broke
Slid on new knob. The turn around time on receiving the part was amazing. We were back in business within 2 days.
Parts Used:
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Lori from Riverview, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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Cloths were getting snagged on top drum guide
Partselect provided me with what to look for with my symptoms and excellent delivery time.
Parts Used:
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kevin from knoxville, IA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 4 people
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Timer Knob broke off
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Regina from Richmond, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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The clothes was getting stuck on the tumbler
First I removed the 2 screws on the back. These 2 screws hold the top cover. I also used a flat screw driver to press the 2 locks that hold the top cover, they are located in front and under the top cover . Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the front cover. After removing the front cover I replaced the drum glider and the seal-basket lower. Now my dryer is working perfectly...
Parts Used:
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Juan from Dallas, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Clothes getting caught in the drum and getting rust stains
Looking from the front at the top cover I lifted the cover with my fingers and inserted a screw driver about one or two inches from each edge.
The top pops loose and lifts up like the hood of a car.
Inside the dryer on either side behind the front panel there is one screw on each side. Remove the screws and lift the entire panel and door. Then swing the assembly out like a door with a hinge on the right. It won't come off due to the wiring harness.
Make sure you study the upper drum glide before removing it. Remove the upper drum glide using Acetone, this is easy but a little messy.
Apply glue, I applied to the drum but if I did it again I would apply it to the glide and clamp it to the drum in three or four places.
This is an income property and my tenants weren't happy so I didn't wait for the other parts. I don't know now if I really needed them. I will replace them anyway.
I realize they make these things easy to repair. It makes the $200+ they charge that much more profitable.
I also vacuumed and cleaned inside.
This is pretty easy and does not require much skill.
Position the panel on the dryer. There are two clips that need to lined up on the bottom and fit the drum back on. Then snap the top cover in and test the dryer.
Remove the top replace the front panel screws and snap the top back in.
I wish I could post pictures there really isn't much to it.
For property owners I would recommend learning how to do this prior to getting a call.
Create a kit of parts that will wear or break. $100 will save you the hassle of ordering under pressure and get you up and running that much faster.
The top pops loose and lifts up like the hood of a car.
Inside the dryer on either side behind the front panel there is one screw on each side. Remove the screws and lift the entire panel and door. Then swing the assembly out like a door with a hinge on the right. It won't come off due to the wiring harness.
Make sure you study the upper drum glide before removing it. Remove the upper drum glide using Acetone, this is easy but a little messy.
Apply glue, I applied to the drum but if I did it again I would apply it to the glide and clamp it to the drum in three or four places.
This is an income property and my tenants weren't happy so I didn't wait for the other parts. I don't know now if I really needed them. I will replace them anyway.
I realize they make these things easy to repair. It makes the $200+ they charge that much more profitable.
I also vacuumed and cleaned inside.
This is pretty easy and does not require much skill.
Position the panel on the dryer. There are two clips that need to lined up on the bottom and fit the drum back on. Then snap the top cover in and test the dryer.
Remove the top replace the front panel screws and snap the top back in.
I wish I could post pictures there really isn't much to it.
For property owners I would recommend learning how to do this prior to getting a call.
Create a kit of parts that will wear or break. $100 will save you the hassle of ordering under pressure and get you up and running that much faster.
Parts Used:
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john from Oak Park, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Loud squealing
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
Parts Used:
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John from Avis, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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squeaking dryer driving insane
First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.
Parts Used:
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greg from great cacapon, WV
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Rusty streaks on clothes.
I First pulled the top panel up and off from the front. Then, on the inside, removed a square head screw from each side holding the front door panel on. I then pulled off the front panel enough to expose the drum. I then removed the old drum glide with a putty knife, and following instructions supplied with the new glide, glued the new glide into place. I then assembled in reverse order of disassembly.
Parts Used:
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Arne from Nome, AK
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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The timer knob broke
Opened the plastic bag, took out the new knob, slid it on and DONE I'm not using pliers anymore!!
Parts Used:
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Kymd from Campobello, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Rust Spots on the clothes....
OK, this is a follow-on repair story.. I *did not* order the lower basket seal when I ordered the upper basket seal... shame!!! BUT, I am now exceptionally quick at removing the front panel - less than 20 seconds!!!
For those who are considering doing this repair, there are more detailed explanations below - my only tip to help do this "quickly" would be to get some automotive brake cleaner to dissolve the old adhesive .. it is AMAZINGLY effective.. The best part is, don't worry about completely removing the old felt when you are tearing it off.. If some is still stuck to the door, it will actually hold some of the brake cleaner in contact with the old adhesive, which accelerates dissolving of the adhesive. Scrape it all off with a plastic scraper, and wipe it down a few times - surface is prepped & ready for the new adhesive + basket seal.. Use spring loaded clamps to hold the seal in place as you install it also.
For those who are considering doing this repair, there are more detailed explanations below - my only tip to help do this "quickly" would be to get some automotive brake cleaner to dissolve the old adhesive .. it is AMAZINGLY effective.. The best part is, don't worry about completely removing the old felt when you are tearing it off.. If some is still stuck to the door, it will actually hold some of the brake cleaner in contact with the old adhesive, which accelerates dissolving of the adhesive. Scrape it all off with a plastic scraper, and wipe it down a few times - surface is prepped & ready for the new adhesive + basket seal.. Use spring loaded clamps to hold the seal in place as you install it also.
Parts Used:
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Lincoln from rio rancho, NM
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Very loud squeak
First I unplugged the dryer. Then I gently pryed the top of the dryer. This was done from the front using a flat screw driver. Do this gently pushing up on the handle of the tool. It will pop up one side at a time. No need to remove the screws and clips on the the rear top of the dryer. Set the top aside. Then from the inside front of the dryer using a phillips screw driver I removed two screws, one on each side. This allowed me to lift the front of the dryer up and away from the unit, off the two clips on the bottom front of the unit. I set the front cover on top of the dryer. There is no need to disconnect any wires. Next removed the rear vented cover on the back of the dryer so I could acess the belt pullies. From here I pushed the upper left pully to the right to ease belt tension and take the belt off that pully. Slide the belt to the rear of the drum. Next I removed the three screws from the center most part of the inside of the dryer drum. My dryer required the use of a square head driver tool. This allowed me to easily bring the dryer drum out the front of the unit. Set it out of your way. Then I vacuumed the dust out of the dryer. Then I lifted out the metal part that resembles a trailer hitch which had been attached to the dryer drum. Next using a nut driver I removed the two screws which hold the white plastic part of the bearing assembly to the rear of the dryer. That is all the taking apart work.
Putting it all back together was not too difficult. First install the new white plastic part of the bearing assmbly inside the dryer along with the metal part on the outside rear. The little metal ball bearing goes on the OUTSIDE between the little metal part and the rear wall of the dryer. Do not leave it out as it provides electrical grounding between the dryer drum and the body of the dryer. Next attach the new bearing part that looks like a trailer hitch to the rear of the dryer drum. This is the three screw part. Then lift the drum back into the dryer. Do not yet set the drum all the way in. The dryer belt must be looped around the drum. I installed a new belt. If the bearing is worn out it is time for a new belt. The smooth side of the belt goes against the dryer drum. Now apply a generous amout of lubricant to the white plastic cradle which was installed on the back of the dryer and to the ball bearing area. Then the dryer drum may be set into place, that is the trailer hitch part into the white plastic cradle. Now the front of the dryer may be reinstalled. Push up on the inside of the dryer drum to line everything back up. Put the two screws back which hold the dryer front on. Be carefull not to drop them inside. Put the dryer belt back into place on its pullies. It goes on the inside of the left and right pullies and on the outside (bottom) of the pully of the dryer motor. Check for and undo any twists. Plug in and test the dryer. All should be well. Reinstall the rear vented cover. Replace the top, connecting the rear first. Make sure to reattach the green grounding wire. Then push the front of the top down onto its clips. You are done! This took me 1 hour and 10 minutes. It sounds like alot but you can do it! Empower yourself!
Putting it all back together was not too difficult. First install the new white plastic part of the bearing assmbly inside the dryer along with the metal part on the outside rear. The little metal ball bearing goes on the OUTSIDE between the little metal part and the rear wall of the dryer. Do not leave it out as it provides electrical grounding between the dryer drum and the body of the dryer. Next attach the new bearing part that looks like a trailer hitch to the rear of the dryer drum. This is the three screw part. Then lift the drum back into the dryer. Do not yet set the drum all the way in. The dryer belt must be looped around the drum. I installed a new belt. If the bearing is worn out it is time for a new belt. The smooth side of the belt goes against the dryer drum. Now apply a generous amout of lubricant to the white plastic cradle which was installed on the back of the dryer and to the ball bearing area. Then the dryer drum may be set into place, that is the trailer hitch part into the white plastic cradle. Now the front of the dryer may be reinstalled. Push up on the inside of the dryer drum to line everything back up. Put the two screws back which hold the dryer front on. Be carefull not to drop them inside. Put the dryer belt back into place on its pullies. It goes on the inside of the left and right pullies and on the outside (bottom) of the pully of the dryer motor. Check for and undo any twists. Plug in and test the dryer. All should be well. Reinstall the rear vented cover. Replace the top, connecting the rear first. Make sure to reattach the green grounding wire. Then push the front of the top down onto its clips. You are done! This took me 1 hour and 10 minutes. It sounds like alot but you can do it! Empower yourself!
Parts Used:
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George from Bozeman, MT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Drum making noise when running ( rear bearing )
Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.
Parts Used:
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Ralph from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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belt broke
Took it apart, lost several screws cause I am an Idiot, placed belt back on, cut hand on back of dryer bled over every thing, curse loudly, put it back together and wiped the blood off, worked perfect!
I went great, worked fine, thanks for your very quick shipment. I will always buy from you if I can!
Thanks again
Bill Manning Florida
I went great, worked fine, thanks for your very quick shipment. I will always buy from you if I can!
Thanks again
Bill Manning Florida
Parts Used:
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William from Ellenton, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer was burning clothes
There was a gap between the drum and the front opening. So, we opened the top of the dryer using the putty knife. There are two clips once you find them you just have to push back on them to release the top of the dryer. Then there are two screws that hold the front of the dryer on. Once they are removed the front of the dryer just came off. The kit has glue and instructions past that point and I just followed them.
Parts Used:
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toshio from canton, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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clothes getting stuck in dryercausing brown stains on clothes
Opened top of dryer with screw driver,removed two screws securing the front door. moved door away from dryer. Removed old felt from door,scraped area to remove old glue and felt. Lightly sanded area to clean. Applied new provided glue and let set for 1 minute. put new felt in place and applied three small clamps to hold in place. Waited 1 hour and reassembled dryer.
Parts Used:
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Kenneth C. from Fort Valley, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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