GBD307PDQ0 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

removed double oven from wall removed cover from electronic cover and replaced part. realitivity simple repair

Once we figured out to use small allen wrenches in the small holes of the hinge to enable us to lift the door off everything went smoothly. Took out six screws, lifted out the hinges - inserted new ones, replaced screws and replaced door. Yipee

Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.

Thanks for the excellent service. Parts cheaper than local stores, arrived on time, with NO PROBLEMS.
Installation, probably 30-minutes. Took the opportunity to clean glass, door panels, etc while disassembled, so used about an hour. Oven cleaner was a big help in the cleanup.
Very rewarding project and it saves changing the unit and and refitting the countertop.

The oven is a KitchenAid convection oven with 4 panes of glass. The front, two inner glass panes that aren’t “touchable” and the interior glass that is the one that takes the heat from the oven and which you can clean easily - this is important because the descriptions of the glass all say “inner glass”. This is door #3 in the diagram that measure 10 x 22”. Which I cracked when I was pouring water into a pan to create steam for bread baking (lesson learned).

Because of the age of the oven, to remove the oven door it was necessary to place “pins” (we use medium screws) into the hole behind the door latches. Then were able to lift off the oven door. (We saw some videos on YouTube)

We placed the oven door on the counter top and removed ALL screws that held the door at the bottom and around the casing - KEEP these screws separate by where you’ve removed them so you replace them into the proper section when you reassemble the door. Each glass you remove has slots that hold them in their proper places. I recommend taking a picture BEFORE you take out each glass as there are brackets that need to go in proper order and you don’t want to forget the order.

We had to flip the door over in order to CAREFULLY remove the casing and access the different inner glass sections (took the opportunity to really clean them). Gathered the broken glass pieces into a paper bag and vacuumed the fragments. Then we were able to place the new interior glass from PartSelect, and reassemble the oven door. It’s perfect!

This took some time most likely because it’s a very old oven and you need to be methodical. I was just glad to be able to get the part - not yet ready to replace the oven.

BTW, originally I was guided to order glass #7 which is one of the inner glass panes that you cannot touch - unless you take apart the oven door - The exchange for the proper door was handled very quickly and easily. Hope this helps.

After 22 years the oven stopped heating in the middle of a meal prep. The fault code was F3 oven temperature problem. I googled the codes and found PartSelect described the problem and the repair and part needed. I received the oven sensor part, then turned off the power, used a screwdriver to remove 2 screws (had to find the right size flat head screwdriver to fit the square holed screws and they were pretty baked on after 22 years of use), gently pulled the sensor and wiring through the back of the oven. I used a needle-nose plier to pull the plastic connector through the insulation, then unsnapped the connector, snapped in the new sensor connector and pushed it back through the oven wall. Pretty simple repair, took me longer to find the screw driver than the actual repair.
Thank you PartSelect for making it easy and saving me a repairman visit!

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

I bought an old house where this Double Wall oven was not working. I looked at the suppressor and one of the Red diodes was burnt. So, I removed it, took a picture of it and send it to the sales rep. She located the part exact part and sent it within 3 days. Then I installed it and the oven worked beautifully. My Appliance repair man gave me an estimate of $760.00 and I was able to repair within 30 minutes and $60.00 part. Really happy, Thank you .

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

removed control panel (4 screws) . replaced thermal fuse on back of control panel. very easy to fix for around $30

I followed the instructions per a YouTube video. My older model was slightly different in parts used in the video, but the general idea was the same. Very happy with current repair / parts. The door now opens smooth as glass, and I even got a chance to clean some internal parts inside the door.

https://youtu.be/tAypQqC5cxo?si=YoDaVMHtalPP3mhO

Followed a video. Followed instructions

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

Verify power is off to the oven, turned main power supply off for the oven at the breaker panel, located the securing screws for the defective element, used a Phillips screw driver to remove the screws, pulled the element slightly out unit wires are exposed, verify 0 volts at the element wiring terminals, used pliers to remove the wires to complete the uninstalling process, reinstall the element in the reverse order, restored power at the breaker panel

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.