GCF23KGWB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Freezer section defroster heater was inoperative.
turned off the refrigerator by turning the right knob in top rear refrigerator to 0.

Used hose on a vacuum sweeper blower side to feed warm air into the bottom rear section. Removed the top plastic panel behind the ice maker to allow air flow to exit through the fan to defrost the freezer coils.

Placed a flat oven pan into the area beside the vacuum hose and sponged up the melted frost water. After 30 minutes, water ceased to drain.

Removed freezer shelves, and 5 screws on rear freezer wall. It took about 2 minutes to remove the heater & braw assembly at the bottom of the coils. 2 screws have to be removed and wires just clip off and back on again. Replaced the 2 screws.

Replace rear coil wall cover and turn on the refrigerator to 5 to 7 and replace cover and shelves.

found the correct bulbs, the hardest part.
un screwed old bulb.
Screwed in new bulb.
Waa La,
There was light.

I took the ice drawer out and turned it upside down. Then removed two philips screws holding the drawer front on. Then with a small straight edge screwdriver pry out the sides to release the locking tabs and remove the auger and crusher assembly. Then on the end of the auger remove the e-clip, slide the auger out and remove the broken part of the crusher dispenser and replace with new. Easier than it sounds. Parts Select was great to deal with. Had my parts in two days.

The three bulbs would then remain on, so I loosened them to keep them off. I didn't know that the cooling system also would stop when the door was open, so for two days only the side freezer was operational. When I discovered that, I hot glued the switch button off, while I searched for a replacement part. The replacement part was an exact duplicate. A simple prying out of the old switch - using a screwdriver, and the reconnection of the two wires connectors to the new part, and clicking back in place ... done. Seriously, it took two minutes.

It was an easy assemble. The Auger Assembly was just replaced.

This was a great opportunity to clean the bottom 3 shelves. I unplugged the frig.,disconnected both water lines, unscrewed water tank, pulled water lines out, put new tank in and pushed new water lines in and connected them, and plugged frig. back in. I grabbed my glass to get a drink and feeling proud but no water. I thought about this for a while and came to the conclusion that the freezer was set to 9 and the water had frozen in the value in the door. I dropped the temp. in the freezer from 9 to 3 and after about 2 days the water worked just fine. I emptied the ice because it was clumped into one big piece. I heard the ice maker going to town all day long. I called for ice later and the motor that dispenses the ice was humming and no ice was dropping. I thought about it and could not come up with the answer so I called tech. at GE and he was no help. So I solved one problem and now I have another that I don't have an answer to. My last attempt is to remove the motor housing to see if gears are jammed or something else.

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

The internal water line was leaking. I could not find any repair parts for my refrigerator but the GE 5/16 water line was the same size. I purchased 6' of tubing and two unions. Make sure the clean and square. If possible, make the cuts in a spot where you can use the pliers and wrench to tighten the union. I cut approximately 2' out of the existing line and replaced it with the same length of new line using the 2 unions, one on each end. Took about 5 minutes.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Removed the lower 2 drawers, lower front grill, rear lower compressor cover. Removed the 2 water lines from the quick connects and screws from the water tank. Pulled lines through the hole in the right rear of the refrigerator and removed tank. Then reversed steps to install new tank. The upper plastic tank cover has 2 buttons on top that are really screws with a plastic cap, these are easily removed with pliers.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.

There are three holes under the front panel in which you push a very small screwdriver in and the front panel comes off.In back of the panel is another panel with 4 screws .1 at each corner.Remove the 4 screws and that will come off exposing the working parts that need to be replaced.This is also a good time to clean anything you can get to in that area.It is very important to remember how everything came out.

ordered replacement part with the understanding that tubing to the water valve could be easily removed. The tubes were carefully removed with some difficulty, and when the new tubes were inserted one leaked. The tube seat was not snug. Therefore a new water valve was purchased. The installation was successful within about 20 minutes. If I were to do the job again, both the water resevoir and valve would be ordered together.

Called the repair guy, he came and said the heater was ok and changed the thermastat.Well that didnt work and the heater looked real bad.So i got one and changed it. Well that worked for two weeks, next i got the motherboard. I looked into it and they have alot of problems with them.And My water and ice machine quitto, so i got one an put t in. So far its not freezing, its been two weeks. But my water and ice machine still wont lite up or work.I was told not to buy Ge buy a service guy before we got it. But the wife went with her cousin and when they got back that is what she got.