GDF520PGD1CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I took out the old one and simply inserted the replacement. It was an exact replacement part and thus a perfect fit. Dishwasher is working fine now! Cost was around $40 (shipped) which I thought was reasonable.

Removed old spray arm. Installed new one. New model spray arm doesn’t need metal heat shields.

The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

Unscrewed mounting bracket from Fram. Unplugged wires. Took adjustable wrench took water line connector off original valve. Place connector on new valve and reconnected all lines and mounted back on frame.

This is NOT a complaint about Parts Select (GE however has some packaging issues to resolve). It may become a complaint of Parts Select if not resolved to my full refund.

Unable to repair with provided part.

I have performed this repair in the past easily and successfully with part from GE Parts. GE Part Number: WD18X10052

GE Parts currently lists part number above as discontinued with a new GE Part
Number: WD35X10386. However not in stock

Found new part number locally however was missing the hose and plastic molded tubing that connects to pump and provides the actual diverter mechanism. Obviously did not purchase.

Ordered from Parts Select on 2021-12-22 and inquired if their part was complete. I was assured it was and paid for overnight shipping at approximate cost of $30.

Part arrives on Christmas Eve, a day late and incomplete. Called Part Select and was assured I would be reimbursed for full cost of part and shipping and was provided with shipping label to return incomplete part at their cost once their stock personnel verifies my claims.

I have photos of original/damaged but complete part beside new in package incomplete part for record and your use if you request.

Email Greg at:
One_US.Marine@yahoo.com

Ordered new parts, unpacked the shipping containers, removed old racks and inserted the new ones. piece of cake. Perfect fit and prompt service.

The dishwasher rack was supposed to come with wheels it did not but I was able to use the existing wheels from the lower rack and snap them on was pretty easy

I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.

The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.

What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.

I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.

Took out the old and swapped out the parts from the old one and put them on the new rack. Looks great and works great.

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

Upper rack I had to reuse the old power was assembly but it just snaps into place. Lower rack literally just place on roller track and it was done. No tools required. Extremely satisfied with my purchase. 10/10 recommend!!

Pulled out old rack and replaced with new rack.

Replace all three spray arms and knocking sound disappeared.
Unscrewed counter clockwise old sprayer arms and lifted. Replaced with new sprayer arms and noise disappeared.

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.