GMC305PDQ6 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Set the new one inside the microwave

PartSelect website indicated replacing the high voltage power supply diode is the solution for "no heat" 99% of the time, but the diode was OK. There is more info at the website concerning the case of "loud buzzing and no heat" indicating the magnetron needs to be replaced. As an electrical engineer with knowledge of microwave components, this was also my best guess. However, getting to the magnetron is not the easiest job, but it's not impossible. You also have to be careful to bleed off any charge stored on the high voltage power supply capacitor. Luckily, I found my KitchenAid service manual tucked away inside the unit since I couldn't find it online.

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

The oven is a KitchenAid convection oven with 4 panes of glass. The front, two inner glass panes that aren’t “touchable” and the interior glass that is the one that takes the heat from the oven and which you can clean easily - this is important because the descriptions of the glass all say “inner glass”. This is door #3 in the diagram that measure 10 x 22”. Which I cracked when I was pouring water into a pan to create steam for bread baking (lesson learned).

Because of the age of the oven, to remove the oven door it was necessary to place “pins” (we use medium screws) into the hole behind the door latches. Then were able to lift off the oven door. (We saw some videos on YouTube)

We placed the oven door on the counter top and removed ALL screws that held the door at the bottom and around the casing - KEEP these screws separate by where you’ve removed them so you replace them into the proper section when you reassemble the door. Each glass you remove has slots that hold them in their proper places. I recommend taking a picture BEFORE you take out each glass as there are brackets that need to go in proper order and you don’t want to forget the order.

We had to flip the door over in order to CAREFULLY remove the casing and access the different inner glass sections (took the opportunity to really clean them). Gathered the broken glass pieces into a paper bag and vacuumed the fragments. Then we were able to place the new interior glass from PartSelect, and reassemble the oven door. It’s perfect!

This took some time most likely because it’s a very old oven and you need to be methodical. I was just glad to be able to get the part - not yet ready to replace the oven.

BTW, originally I was guided to order glass #7 which is one of the inner glass panes that you cannot touch - unless you take apart the oven door - The exchange for the proper door was handled very quickly and easily. Hope this helps.

I followed the instructions per a YouTube video. My older model was slightly different in parts used in the video, but the general idea was the same. Very happy with current repair / parts. The door now opens smooth as glass, and I even got a chance to clean some internal parts inside the door.

https://youtu.be/tAypQqC5cxo?si=YoDaVMHtalPP3mhO

Followed a video. Followed instructions

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

Verify power is off to the oven, turned main power supply off for the oven at the breaker panel, located the securing screws for the defective element, used a Phillips screw driver to remove the screws, pulled the element slightly out unit wires are exposed, verify 0 volts at the element wiring terminals, used pliers to remove the wires to complete the uninstalling process, reinstall the element in the reverse order, restored power at the breaker panel

Well, the instructions on the computer site were very easy to understand, however, the difficulty lay in the fact that we were 2 78 yr old people and getting to the inside the oven, lifting up the element so that we could see where it should be connected and get it connected was a task. We had to get down on our knees and then get back up. That was a chore within itself. But, the instructions were easy and clear.
Bottom line if us old people can do it, anyone can.

I was able to remove the old element and planned it with what little time off that I could. This would have been maybe 20-30 minute repair at the most. HOWEVER! I was extremely irritated screws were not included? When I called to ask if they were missing they said they didn’t come with the element. Cost me a very annoying trip to the hardware store. Not sure if I missed it on the site that they don’t provide screws - would have been nice to know that before I started. Still scratching my head as to why screws wouldn’t be included? My old ones were as beat up as the element I replaced. I was so irritated I was looking for a spot to leave feedback. Product is fine. Shipping was fine. Sending these products out as they do? Zero stars on that.

Fool proof.

Quickly

Just put it in