GSC3200J01BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.

The motor seized up on my 1990 GE Dishwasher
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump and removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.

Once i had the dishwasher removed everything went as the instructions indicated except for the overflow switch.I removed the switch from the old bracket which is not required,just install the switch assy. to the new bracket and proceed as instructed. the total repair shouldn't take more than 1 hour if you don't make the mistake i made.I AM VERY SATISFIED WITH PRODUCT.
I HAD NEXT DAY DELIVERY AT REGULAR POSTAGE CHARGE.

I had hoped to be able to do the entire replacement at the floor level through the front panel without moving the dishwasher out of the cabinet. That turned out to be impossible because two of the machine screws holding in the old pump rusted and would not budge.
I did however manage to do the replacement by moving the dishwasher only 16 to 18" out of the cabinet so that I could work on more than one side. A word of advice: Once the pump is disconnected get it out of the house as soon as possible. It will continue to leak on your floor otherwise. No point in getting your pants, shirt and tools all wet.
The best part of this replacement came when I buttoned the whole thing back-up and ran it. This new pump was significantly less noisy than the old one making it possible to stay in the kitchen and actually have a conversation with someone. (My dog no longer leaves either.)
Would I do it again....you bet!

It is pretty easy to replace the parts because the new and old parts are identical. I unplugged wire connection, removed the two screws and one small metal piece that fixes the plastic moving part, then put back with new parts.
A little bit extra time may needed due to small space in that location, also the small or flexable screw driver is needed.

Disconnected the electrical, water supply and drain. Pulled unit out from under counter, tipped it on its side and replaced the motor/pump unit. tipped it back on its legs put it back under the counter connected the water supply, drain and electrical. All went well. The unit performs as it should. it took about two (2) hours without rushing through it.

Heard a noise in our dishwasher and ended up taking the entire pump and housing out and found a small sucker stick in the impeller along with a bunch of string and other material that needed to be cleaned out. Also found that the housing was leaking at the shaft that goes to the solenoid and dripping on the solenoid and had rusted the metal plunger that goes into the solenoid. Bought the housing and solenoid unit. 1 screw (bottom one) on the housing was rusted becaue of the water. Had to hacksaw the housing and then had to drill out that screw. Also, the pump housing screen is left hand thread and is tough to get out. Had to hacksaw that too. Be careful of the orientation of the metal ring in the impeller area. I did that backwards the first time and the motor would not move. Also, the electrical connector to the motor appears to be polarized so it can only go on 1 way-notice before you take it out. Be sure to screw the solenoid bracket back on tight and notice the spring orientation before you remove-the new one was different than the old. Bottom line is that it works fine, and for $40, it's fixed, rather than spending $800 for a new one.

Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.

Pulled unit out from counter (never had dishwasher issues before) to see if there was anything obvious with wiring or anything. Noticed that some little piece on the bottom looked to have melted (later discovered to be the drain solenoid). Removed the obviously defective part and looked it up on line. Found the name of it on Part Select's website then started shopping for best price. Came back to Part Select because the price was the cheapest I could find. Two - Three days later received part and put it back on and had the dishwasher back in place and in use within about 10-15 minutes. Marking my first ever dishwasher repair. :)

It was tricky to get the old rack off. Usually you can unclip the clips closest to the front wheels to pull the rack out. However, there is an area behind one of the wheels that you can kind of release and than pull the rack out. You then have to slide out the funnel/fan piece from the middle. That piece slides/ snaps in the middle of the the new rack. Then slide the new rack in place, re attach the release used to slide oldrack out.
That is it !!

To remove the upper rack, twist the support rail end caps toward the center of the machine and slightly downward. The caps will come off and you can slide the new rack into place. Reverse the process to replace the end caps. One of mine broke and I will need to order replacements.
The original rack is no longer available. The replacement, which is the only one GE offers, has less storage space and is not as sturdy. It bends downward when full. I am very disappointed and recommend not replacing the rack unless you have no other choice.

Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff

replaced solenoid. worked properly after repair

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.