GSD1300N35WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The following steps were performed: 1) Disconnect power to the dishwasher 2) Unscrew all the screws on the inside of dishwasher door. 3) Remove outside plate on bottom of dishwasher. 4) Separate the dishwasher door after all screws are removed and pull out the old dishwasher rinse agent tank. There is a screw that needs to removed that holds the tank in place as well. 5) Snap in the new rinse agent tank and tighten screw in that holds tank in place. 6) Gently put the inside door back in place. Make sure all the holes line up correctly. 6) Put back the bottom plate of dishwasher. 7) Turn on the power again. You have now completed the repair.

Turn off power and water from dishwasher. Remove Base Access Panel. Remove the upper 2 screws that holds the dishwasher in place. Pull out dishwasher. Locate the valve and remove the 2 screws holding the mounting bracket. (I used a hex Nutdriver to remove the screws) Remove the valve. Disconnect the wire connector. Disconnect water supply. (Place a towel to catch the water) Loosen the hose clamp holding the inlet hose and remove the hose. (I used pliers to loosen the clamp) Remove the elbow from the old valve and reattach to the new valve. (Use teflon tape around the threads) Reverse the Process. Check for leaks. Piece of Cake. Part was an exact fit.

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Simply screwed in new cap

Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.

Replaced lower rack with new. Upper rack removed front stoppers, removed old rack, slit new rack in and replaced stoppers. Total time about 15 mins.

Took old rack out put new rack

I took out the old one and put the new one in.

Unscrewed old one and installed the new one.

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

The wheel kit came with axel's to support them. They snapped in place in seconds. No instructions provided, but installing method was obvious.

The part came in as ordered. After removing the dish rack, I loosened three 1/4" screws (two on the strainer basket and one at the base of the spray arm. I had to slide the rubber hose down and back to disconnect the base which I did by turning counter clockwise. The new one went in by reversing what I just described. Other than two of the screws being difficult to reach, everything worked fine.Thanks for your site.

I watched several YouTube videos on how to make the repair. It looked very easy but sometimes professionals, because they've done it before, don't point out small tips that would help a DIY homeowner. The latch goes easily into the inner door slot but there's nothing to hold it there. The videos show the inner and outer door being closed together without showing that you have to hold the latch in place while bringing the outer door up to meet the inner door. Any movement of the inner door makes the latch fall out. So I would say it took me 5 times longer to do this repair than it would if I was doing it again.

Ordered most likely part...water inlet valve.

1. Turn off water supply.
2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the
dishwasher.
3. Remove hose to supply valve.
4. Take electrical plug off old valve.
5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of
the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket.
6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the
inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the
rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher.
7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the
bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and
bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose.
8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet
hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip.
9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp
with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this
time.
10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose
connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick
plate.