GSF26C4EXY00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Take out shelves and back shelf pins and remove long cover. Disconnect wires and take old part out and installed new part. Then reversed and put everything back together. It worked perfect. No more noise

with vidio

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Unplug fridge, remove shelves, remove back cover, unplug old motor, remove adapters from old motor, put adapters on new motor, install new motor, replace cover, replace shelves, plug fridge back in, give it 24 hours to stabilize thermally.

I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

What took the most time was figuring out how to access the back of the pad. This is what I finally put together. First, remove the two screws(with nut driver) holding on the silver plastic cover around the water dispenser orifice and the ice dispenser chute. Next there are two or three black plastic clips that hold the electronic face in place. They are located near the front of the face on the bottom. Take a small flashlight and point it up from the bottom of the dispenser area, and look for a hole in the clear plastic with a small black catch in it. There is one on the right, one on the left, and I think one in the middle. I released these catches by pressing up in the holes with a small flathead screw driver while pulling out on the electronic face. One by one I got them free and the electronic face came away, revealing two Phillips head screws which held the dispensers trim in place. I removed the screws then pulled off the base or drip catcher part of the dispenser. It pulled straight off revealing two more Phillips head screws. After removing them I used my small flathead to work my way around the narrow trim piece disengaging the four clips on either side of the trim that locks it onto the backsplash liner piece. On the bottom I worked the trim up and down to get it to come free of the metal edges of the door and the plastic splash guard. It was kind of a hassle as its job is to lock the splash guard to the door, it hooks to both easily. Once the trim is off and the splash guard the pad is attached too is removed and in your hands its a simple matter to slide the pad up and free of the back splash. The red and blue wire has simple routing to the back of the electronic face previously removed. Disconnect the black connector at the end of the blue and red wires that lead to the pad you are removing. Install the new pad following the original routing path and reassemble dispenser face in reverse order of removal. Be patient and look around to locate the parts described, sorry I don't know their proper names so I am calling the parts names that make sense to me. I hope that helps. Best of luck.

removed freezer shelves, removed back panel with screw driver. removed wires from fan motor, removed fan motor from mounting bracket, removed fan from motor. installed new motor in mounting bracket, installed fan on new motor,installed wiring on new motor. turned power on to check operation, installed rear panel and shelves. total time for job about a half hour

I took the cover off, and noticed the tabs holding the timer wheel were broken off on one side. after removing the wheel, I noticed the shaft from the ice lifters was broken. Since the only way I could repair it was to buy the entire module, which I did. I received my part in 3 days. When it came, I began removing the old module by taking out the three screws holding it. After replacing the module which took about 10 minutes, my machine was making ice within about an hour. My ice holder was full in 3 days. Albert Moran, Milton, Fl

Simply removed the phillips head screw and put the bushing and washer and coupling back in place and replaced the screw. Hardest part was breaking the screw loose to begin with. After that it was a snap. Less than 15 mintues and i was crushing ice again. Ordered two of the couplings so I have a spare when this one snaps. I think this is a re-curring problem for this model.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

Removed 4 bottom screws. Removed module screws. Replaced module and motor with new parts (came assembled). Replaced module screws and installed the ice maker with the 4 bottom screws.