GTAN5550D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I could remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

Followed the instructions on repair clinic video

Took top off and replaced bolt.

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

This is a normal condition; the old bolts are self-tapping so simply align them well, I used a drill-driver to get them started and completed tightening with a socket wrench. (Also the new drive shaft assembly comes with a tub seal, so you don't have to order a separate one.) I do think it would be better if the drive assembly came with 4 new bolts.
The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.

replaced broken straps all 4. washer not working ]. replaced lid switch with wire harness.replaced bad old belt.working fine now. my wife is very happy. thanks for your videos and how to do the job right.

Removed the front of the washer using a putty knife. Removed the old belt and used a shop-vac to c,San up the insides. Placed the belt on the pulley and used three med sized zip ties about one inch apart. I cut off the exposed tail of the zip ties. Got the belt started around and put the belt onto the small pulley. Keeping an eye on the small pulley to make sure the belt did not slip off, I had to push it up a time or two. Then as I pulled the big pulley around, one zip tie broke, replaced it and continued pulling the big pulley, it got tough but with one knee pushing on the drum and pulling with one had it went on. I did slowly turn it to align the belt on the big and small pulleys. Not hard, I recommend a bright flashlight and gloves. I saved a good buck doing it myself :-)

Unplugged...Removed back from washer...Using nut driver-cordless drill...Inspected hose-found leak....Removed hose with pliers & screw driver.....Than dried the hose...& than for temporary fix (for the wife to continue washing) used some Epoxy for rubber.....Than ordered new part. Received and reinstalled replacement. Thank you

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Easy as can be. Similar but not exactly like the YouTube videos, but close enough. Biggest problem was pulling the filler tube off of the mixer and re installing the tube. Nothing to get worked up about.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

Took off the front panel of the washer which exposed electrical wires going to top lid sensor. Took out old sensor installed new. Cut wires from old sensor and spliced wires from new sensor to machines wires that went to old sensor. Replaced front of washer. Washer works fine now.