GTW460ASJ1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Open up the top of the washer per instructions. Remove the old switch and wiring harness. Install the new wiring harness and switch. The instructions that were provided are very descriptive so the installation went flawlessly. The switch has been redesigned and looks to be more robust than the original. The washer now works like new.

Easy fix. Take out the two screws on the backside of the control panel and remove control panel out of the way. You will need a long shaft nut driver or 1/4 inch socket extension to be able to get to the nuts, one on each side of the back of the control panel. The water inlet valve is right there in your face. Easy to remove and replace. Remember to save the small O-ring in the center of the top of the valve and reuse it. Oh, by-the-way, shut the water off first and unplug the washer. Replacement part was a perfect match.

Take cover off use socket driver to remove two hex head machine screws. There was a foam piece attached to the old part that i pealed off and attached to the new part. It’s there to prevent rattles. There is a tube that pulls out of the old part and a grommet inside that must be removed and placed in the new part. Connect the two electrical plugs and install the new part just like the old part came out.

Took 4 screws out of back of control panel. Tested old capacitor. Installed new one. Put back on tested spin cycle everything is doing great

Took the belt cover and then replaced the pump. Did a dry run and everything was fine.

First, I made sure the washer was empty of cloths and water and then unplugged the appliance. I laid a towel down on the floor just in case there was any water remaining in the drum and I slowly laid the washer on its side, I was able to do this with the drain and water hoses still connected to the washer, be careful you do not rip any of these connections or simply disconnect, to each is own. Once I had the washer on its side, I used the socket wrench to remove the 3 bolts holding the belt drive cover on the motor. I placed the cover and bolts to the side, and I began pulling off the old belt that had slipped, stretched, wrapped and ultimately hung up the motor off buy unwrapping it from the motor itself. Once the motor was free from the belt, the wheel was able to spin like it is supposed to. I installed the new belt by simply wrapping it on the motor wheel and spinning it on to grab onto the second wheel, just make sure to line the belt up correctly so it does not fall off. I placed the cover back over the belt and bolted on the 3 bolts. I flipped my washer back up and ran a small wash cycle to make sure that the belt was working properly and once it began to wash, I threw in some cloths and began washing as normal. The whole process took less than 15 minutes.

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)

The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.

I watched a video on a few times that PartSelect sent me about how to make the switch from the broken lock set to the new one. And it really went just as the video showed. So far things are working.

Just follow the directions, it's easy. My biggest gripe is with Whirlpool. We moved into this house about a year ago; the dishwasher was new at that time. The house we moved from also had a similar Whirlpool dishwasher, less than a year old. Both had these roller assemblies break. The replacement parts are from Whirlpool, and of much better quality. I don't understand why they don't use the better parts when making the unit.

Put the parts in, turned washer on.....lid lock still blinks, will not operate. Suggest the control board that sends the signal to the solenoid lid lock switch is defective. Buying a new washer, scrapping this one.

Unpluged the washer first got as much water out of the drum as possible the leaned the washer over forward and let it rest against something removed hose clamp from pump side and removed the drain hose from pump remove plastic cover and unplug pump push tab and pull remove bolts from pump remove pump install all components in reverse be sure to replace pump to drum seal as well

Once I determined it was the drain pump, (by taking off the drain hose and letting it empty by gravity, then running the spin cycle which worked ok) I ordered the part, got confirmation from PartSelect.com that it would fit my washer. I removed the old pump taking out the 6 screws needed to hold it and the cover in place and unplugged the electric connector. I installed the new pump from PartSelect.com using the same cover and 6 screws and electric connector. I reconnected the drain hose and the washer has worked perfectly since then!

any electrical device unplug the power cord. I followed the instructions the best I could understand them. but once the part was removed I took pics from my cell phone of how the wiring ran, and also what other connections I had to undo. all connections were made, connected the hot n cold hoses, plugged into the washer no beeps or sounds as before opened the hot n cold water valves, and the tub was being filled with water. could not turn on the washer, no lights or beeps... so I gave up I spent too much time on this machine and money too, hope to get an RMA for the Lid Switch assembly

Unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, didn’t have to disconnect water lines, set the parts out on the counter as I went over the instructions a couple of times, followed the directions, plugged it back in, worked perfectly again.