GTW525ACP1WB General Electric Washer - Instructions

Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac
Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket
Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects
Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans
Remove internal drain hose/clamps from pump - w/ pliers
Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts
Remove wire assembly plug from socket
Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts
Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket
Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts
Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer)
Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut
Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug
You are done !

Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.

Turn off hot and cold water supply valves feeding washer.
Disconnect both water hoses from washing machine.
Remove two screws (one on each side) from upper silver colored metal plate on back of washer to allow access to (blue) water inlet valve.
Slightly lift the bottom portion of metal plate and slide to release hooks for easy removal.
Pull back and tilt forward plastic control panel to get it out of your way.
Disconnect two electrical connections (one on each side) of water inlet valve. One of these came off easily but the other one was stubborn and I had to force it off with a screw driver. If there is an easier way I don't know what it is.
Remove two screws from water inlet valve. (one on each side)
Gently pull up on stainless steel water temperature sensor located in the middle of the water inlet control valve. It has a black wire connected to it so be careful.
Once you have disconnect the sensor you can remove the water inlet valve.
If you look closely you will see a small blue O-ring in the hole where you removed the water temp sensor from the water inlet valve.
The new valve DOES NOT come with a replacement O-ring so you
will have to re-use the old one. I used a small jeweler's screwdriver to get the old out of the hole.
Don't forget to install the O-ring or your washer WILL leak!
Put everything back together in reverse order.
Check hose connections for leaks.
Hope this helps somebody. Wish I had known about the O-ring. It would have saved me a headache.

Put washer on it side. Removed shield belt and pulley from motor.
Unplugged and unsnapped speed sensor and replaced with new one . Washer spinning like it should. Problem solved

Replacing was easier than opening the box it came in. Used a 7/16 socket and a few extensions to reach the bottom of the agitator. It came out super quick cleaned out the fabric softener older than my kids from under it. Lined up the groves of the new one and it slid easily. I took a small piece of painters tape and crumbled it into a small ball and put it in the socket to keep the bolt in place while it lowered it into the agitator. Made it snug and we were back in business good as new!!!

Tilt washer back.
Remove belt gaurd.
Remove belt.
Remove pulley.
Remove clutch and shifter.
Install in reverse order

You will need to shut off the water, unplug the washer, disconnect the water lines, disconnect and drain the drain line, tip the washer either at an angle or on its side, remove motor cover, disconnect drain pump electrical cable, remove drain pump, install new drain pump, reconnect drain pump electrical cable, reconnect drain line and water supplies, turn water back on and test the washer.

Note: I thought the drain pump was bad for 2 reasons. 1 was the washer had previously started to smell, indicating the washer might not be fully draining. 2 was that the washer would agitate (meaning motor seemed fine) but when it would normally start draining before spinning, the washer would do nothing (could hear a faint hum coming from the washer).

year and a half old unit.
The Mode selector failed to properly engage the gears and gears were grinding.
O moved dryer out of area. And then turned off water, disconnected the hoses from wall. Placed hoses including drain hose into 5-gallon bucket and clamped so they would stay. I then moved washer away from wall about 2'. Then tipped it back against wall. Used 2x4 to keep it there as a support. (Doing this allowed me to keep it in the area and not dump water on floor. Then removed the gear guard, gears and mode selector. Reinstalled all parts and packed gears with synthetic grease made for plastic. It is now working like new. Parts were exact match. Took 30 minutes. Also cleaned the dryer vet line while I had it apart.

I watch a YouTube video with the same problem and follow each step

I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.

We had a steady drip of water coming from the top of the washer. I felt around to find that it was coming from the blue plastic piece from which the water comes when the washer is filling, which is the water inlet valve assembly. There was no water leaking from the hoses, and so I figured that the problem must be the water inlet valve. It was a very easy replacement:

1. Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet.
2. Turn off the water supply to the washer.
3. Disconnect the hoses directly at the back of the washer, remembering which one was on which side. You can also attach them to the new water inlet valve assembly at this time, as it can be installed with the hoses on.
4. Remove the two vertical screws at the back of the washer. They are on the far sides. Use a quarter inch bit to remove them. Keep them nearby.
5. You can now gently remove the control panel top by pulling up and toward the back of the machine. Be gentle so that you do not pull up any wires or dislodge any hoses!
6. You will see two electrical plugs attached to the inlet valves. Gently unplug them. One of them has a plastic tab holding it on, so pull that up carefully as you slide it off.
7. There is a small circular plug in the center of the blue inlet valve assembly. Gently remove it by prying it up from the metal circle. There is also a small rubber o-ring that should still be attached to that plug, but it might have come loose and still be in the water inlet valve contraption, so pull it out with something and stick it back on the plug with the circle metal piece.
8. Remove two small screws that are near each other that hold the blue inlet valve assembly in place. There is also a metal bracket holding it there that will come loose once these screws are removed.
9. You can now remove the entire blue plastic piece by rotating it and pulling through the hole.
10. Put the new water inlet valve in, and plug everything in the way it was, securely fastening screws and hoses. Be sure that no other hoses or wires came loose from the control panel.
11. Plug the washer back into the power, turn the water back on, and that should be it!

Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.

Following directions from a Youtube video.

Replacement was extremely easy:
1. Shutoff Water Valves
2. Removed hoses from Washer
3. Removed two screws to get control unit off.
4. Removed wires to valve assembly.
5. Removed Screw holding assembly in place.
6. Removed temp sensor from assembly.
7. Unit came right out and reversed the process for replacement Unit.
8. Very easy...

My son in law did it for me