My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.
Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)
I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.
Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.
It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.
I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good. PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp. In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.
I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!
I went to You tube sight to see how I can remove front of washer so I could inspect inside and see if the problem was visible. A butter knife easily released the tabs that hold the front of washer on. My wife in the mean time found a you tube video that showed the same problem and I ordered the part right away. It showed just two screws and a plug that had to be removed. I always buy my parts from part-select because the quality and speedy delivery and tracking is great! This was an easy fix!
Plastic housing for the door latch mounted in the chassis of the dryer was damaged so the section of the latch in the door wouldn't align.
This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!
Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell
Socks dropping outside of the drum into the bottom caused the drive belt to come off.
I put the old belt back on but it came off after a couple of washing. I had ordered a new one. Trouble was the new belt would work its way off the large smooth wheel as I turned the motor pully to get the belt on. Solution: I taped up a stack of shims to fit between the washer bottom and the back, bottom of the smooth, drum wheel. This stopped the drive belt from rotating off as I turned the motor pully. Success. You're laying on your side, on the floor, with minimum room under the drum and lots of sharp edges.
To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.
