IX7DDEXDSM02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the ice bucket and motor cover on the inside of the left door. Then I removed the 4 screws that hold the motor in place and unplugged the electrical connector. The old motor shaft was all rusted and housing was cracked letting water inside the motor. That's why it failed. The new motor I ordered from Part select came with a rubber seal that I slipped on to the motor shaft. That will stop any water from entering the new dispencer motor. I reinstalled motor and the dispencer works great. Total time for removal and replace was 20 min. A novice can do it. Bill WI.

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.

We were misled into believing we needed to replace the door seal, and after this replacement was completed we found out it was not the case.

Instead we needed to clean out the EXTENSION-DRAIN,DUAL EVAP W11661573, part #5 on the unit diagram, which is found on the back of the unit.

Back to the seal instructions:
Once you remove the original seal you cannot reuse it, so if you replace it and it is not what you needed, you can't return the not-needed part. There goes about $190.

Also, the seal comes with no instructions (at the time there was no instruction video here either and we had to search other sites). It turns out it takes at least 24 hrs for the rubber seal to regain its shape. You also may have to use a hair dryer for this pre-installation process. Because of this, I marked the time of repair as more than 2 hours.
The end of the instruction video we followed called for testing the new seal installation with a bill ($), if you can pull it out easily from the closed door, you need to continue heating the seal with the hair dryer to improve sealing.

So do yourself a favor and test you fridge seal first, to see if you really need to replace it. Close the door with a bill or paper trapped. If it is loose or falls out, seal needs to be replaced, if the bill/paper stays firm enough, the seal is fine.

It took a lot of research through other resources, not Partselect, to eventually fix the ice formation issue. From all the appliance repairs I have done, this was the most frustrating, although not the most complicated. Since no part needs to be purchased (though you could replace the drain tube for just $24 instead of hassle to clean it), no real help from parts stores is available, and you have to rely on random people with their home videos, some are reliable some are not. We could not find one with our model (596.72383411) and had to figure it out based on similar models. Our drain tube has a siphon, so it is a little harder to clean than other models with s straight tube.

Good luck!

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Back cover was wet in the area of the inlet valve(sign). Water on the floor. 90% of the time is a leaking inlet valve. But it could be frozen water on the drain pan- so I exposed the radiator fins and drain pan and looked. No ice so I went to the valve and opened the copper line valve and waited a few minutes- as soon as water was called by the. Ice maker it leaked. So I went ahead and replaced the valve and after I made sure no leaks were visible I replaced the back cover and continued to observe and all was good. I treated the fridge as a new installation, changed filter and dumped the next two ice buckets. Then I proceeded to demand brownie points.

Unscrewed the old one and put the new one in
Some water on shelf of fridge
Overall not bad

Opened filter housing, yanked out old filter, screwed in new filter - one turn.
For the air filter, opened housing. Lifted out old filter, dropped in new, closed housing.

Removed broken one and installed new one

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Very simple, easy, and quick! Anybody can do it!!