J2B912SEK2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.

Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.

In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

Pulled the gas stove out so that I could shut off the gas valve and unplug the power cord. Job was made easier by removing the oven door (which just slides out). I took the 2 screws out that held the old igniter in place. Went to the rear of the range where there was a small 3"X2" electrical cover for the igniter, and disconnected the wire leads from the wiring harness. I then pulled the old igniter out through the oven front. Fed the new igniter wires through the back of the range and plugged the new igniter in. Reinstalled the electrical cover in the back of the range, attached the 2 -1/4" screws to reinstall the igniter inside the broiler. Put back the oven door. Turned the gas valve back on and sprayed on a soapy solution to check for gas leaks. Plugged the electrical cord back in. Pushed range back in place, Turned broiler on. Wait for a few seconds till the gas comes back thru the line. Works great Our stove was a GE Profile Gas Range. The part number for the igniter is WB13K21. We are very satisfied. Jim

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Step 1 pull the broiler completely out of the bottom of the oven. Step 2 unplug the igniter Step 3 remove 3 small screws to pull the burner tube completely out of the oven. Step 4 replace the igniter and repeat steps to install burner tube back into the oven.

I remove the old thermostat and realized right away it was burned, the replacement was very easy to clip on

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Secured the power, Opened the back of the range, and discovered a rodent chewed the wires in half so I striped the ends and wired them back together, the oven works great !!

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. First, I watched the video on your web site, and used it as a reference to make the repair. I did remove the oven door tho, as it made it easier to complete the work, the video didn't show the door being removed. The video was very helpful.

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

First I removed the racks and oven bottom panel. Then I took out the two screws holding the ignighter unplugged the wire connection and removed the old ignighter, compared the old with the new one mounted it back with the two screws plugged it back in. Job finished in 15 minutes and oven back working again.

Unplugged the stove and pulled it out from the wall. Took the metal shield off the back of stove held by 2 screws. Unplugged the Molex connector for the igniter. unscrewed the round metal shield covering the opening where the igniter wires run to the back of the stove. Removed the 2 screws that held igniter bracket to the burner. Next, I pulled the wires and Molex connector through the opening. Installed new igniter in the reverse order. Be very careful with new igniter as they are very fragile and can break easily.