JCBP63SK4SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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nylon guide was broke off
took drawer out removed broken guide. It had 1 screw removed it put the new guide in place put screw back in. Put drawer back in stove, It works fine.
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Lathan from Goodyear, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
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emmett from rocky mount, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
5 of 7 people
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Broiler element was sparking
I removed oven door so i could reach easier. Then removed screws from Broiler element at the back of the oven. Pulled off connected wires. Slid wire connectors on new element and screwed bracket in.
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jeff from NEENAH, WI
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
4 of 4 people
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
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Russell from Yuma, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
7 of 13 people
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Oven Temp. went too high and the door locked. Burnt the food
This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.
Parts Used:
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Nathan from BILLINGS, MT
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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F2 Error on Display
The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
Parts Used:
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Tom from FORNEY, TX
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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temp sensor in oven was failing.
I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.
Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.
At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.
At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
Parts Used:
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Chad from FRANKLIN, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
4 of 4 people
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When I took out the baking element, the wires went up inside because they were so short, I got a hold of one of them but couldn't get a hold of the other.
Had to pull out the refrigerator and put it in the dining room in order to pull out the stove to be able to get to the back of it. Had to take off the back of the stove to get to the wiring for the baking element, so at that point I replaced the broil element at the same time. Not a easy job at all.
Parts Used:
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Daniel from SPRINGFIELD, OR
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 5 people
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The element split open and burned out
I unscrewed two screws inside the over over the element. Then I slowly pulled the element out and unplugged the two wires attached. Afterward I pushed the element back in place and screwed it back in and was done. Sure saved $550 I thought I might have to spend on a new oven,
Parts Used:
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Thomas from Houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
4 of 5 people
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I broke the left drawer glide on our oven
I unscrewed to old glide and replaced it then re attached the screw
Parts Used:
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Keith from Freeport, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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old blackened oven racks
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Roger from Falls Church, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
8 of 17 people
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The bake element quit working.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the wires to the new element and reinstalled the two screws. A brief test showed the element worked and that was it.
Parts Used:
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Wiley from Port Orchard, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
5 of 8 people
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every thing went great
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CLYDE from SAINT PETERSBURG, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
5 of 8 people
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oven would not heat
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
Parts Used:
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Jim from Williamsburg, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 8 people
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none
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Michael from Laughlin, NV
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people
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