JES9750BAB Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

lifted the top center panel off removed old filter installed new easy peesy

EXTREMELY simple - drop in. AND- the part cost less than half the price quoted by appliance vendor...2 years earlier !!! This site is a marvelous resource for parts one can install with minimal skill.

Pulled out old one and slipped in the new one.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

Removed old filter and replaced with new.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Replace the racks. No special instructions.

For the Ikea Range isg650ws01, the repair was very easy.

Step 1) Slide the range away from the wall slowly, verifying occasionally to not strain the gas or electric lines

Step 2) Unplug the range

Step 3) There are 2 phillips heads screws holding the rear panel in place. Remove the two screws and remove the panel.

Step 4) The cooling fan is held in place with 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws and disconnect the electrical cord

Step 5) install the new cooling fan. The electrical plug can only be inserted one direction, so there shouldn't be a concern that you have the plug installed correctly. Match the original orientation of the fan in the unit. Re-install the 2 screws for the fan, and then install the rear cover. There are 2 slots that the panel needs to slide into in the bottom. Finish the install by installing the 2 screws you removed in to hold the rear panel. Plug the range back in and heat to 450°F to validate the repair.

Once it was identified that the Motor Relay was no longer functioning it became a very easy repair. I had the part in 2 days per the initial order information. Installation was merely insuring that each wire clip was connected in the EXACT location on the new Relay as on the old one; removing one at a time from the old to the new is key. This took all of 5 minutes at the most including replacing the front panel back on to the washer.

Removed the original rack. Checked dimensions, installed the new rack.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.