JNM1541DP1WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Removed one screw, slid frame out and removed broken glass. replaced bulb. The hard part was slidding the frame back in place and starting the screw. We were very surprised at the fast delivery of the parts, thank you. The sad part, a few days later the glass broke again. We are trying to get to the people at GE to solve our problem. We feel like that will not happen, we just do not have the time to stay on hold on the phone waiting for someone to solve our problem. Will reorder glass.

I thought the thermal cutoff was out, ordered a new one. Turns out the TCO I was looking at was normally-open, and closes if overheated. My advice: No matter what your microwave is doing, start with a full inspection of each of the door switches. I did a continuity test, which initially passed; after replacing TCO didn't fix it, I found that one of hte door switches was intermittent - it had failed mechanically, would appear closed if jostled just right. After replacing that door switch the problem was fixed. Next time I'll start with the door switches - they're the easiest part to find, coulda gotten it locally - is most likely to fix the prob, and if not at least you've ruled them out for future troubleshooting.

Remove top air grate via 2-screws. Remove metal top panel behind grate that's above bulb via 1-screw. Bulb is exposed and can be un-screwed. DONE

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

Handed the part to my son. He unscrewed 5 screws in the base of the microwave, it dropped down. The light mechanism was clearly in view. With the exception of some corrosion on the old piece, it was simple to remove and replace, put back together, screw back up and all worked fine.

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

Removed control panel disconnected old capacitor installed new and returned the leads back on to the new. replaced control cover and tested

used the Dremel Osciilating tool with small blade to quickly cut/remove the old rack holder and then inserted new hold. Took less then 5 minutes total.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.

Found your site online, ordered parts needed. When parts arrived I just put them into the holes in the microwave and popped on the self. Worked like a charm! Thanks very much!