JVM1790S - Instructions

Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.

This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors.
Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.

I was preheating this oven when it suddenly shut down and had no power. After checking breakers and finding that there was power to the outlet, I purchased a ceramic fuse and replaced that. It didn't help. Then I ordered part #PS2339856 THERMOSTAT(PLATE) and we replaced that (the old one tested bad), but the oven still would not power on. Those were the quick and easy potential fixes that only involved removing a couple of front panels.

My husband is a retired electrician, so I trusted him to work on this. After doing quite a bit of research, we learned that there is yet another thermostat deep in the bowels of the machine that apparently prevents the oven from overheating. That seemed to fit the situation, because the oven was very hot when it shut down.

We took the oven down (mounted over the range and very heavy!) and opened it up. Using PartSelect's very helpful diagrams (In this case "Interior Parts 2") we located and removed the part labeled "27," which is #PS1016683 THERMOSTAT. The old one tested bad, so I ordered a new one.

Lo and behold, it worked! This is a very expensive oven -- in the range of $600 -- so I'm very pleased that this $20 part and several hours of research and work were able to repair it.

Removed some cosmetic panels. Removed the assembly with micro switches. Examined the faulty switch by checking the clicking action of switch. Two others were ok by this method. Replaced the switch with new one. Works fine so far. Thanks to web site and YouTube videos.

My oven is installed above the counter making it a bit difficult to reach the screws closest to the wall. Instructions should note that both harnesses need to be disconnected and that there are two screws, not one holding the motor. This one issue made it frustrating since that screw is located towards the back away from your vision. This is when the flash light and a bit of contortions were required.

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

Had to use a screw driver to remove the cover to replace the bulb. Worked great and your service was great. Probably didn't take more than 5 minutes.

Using a phillips screwdriver I opened the panel in which the two lamps are located and easily removed the lamps. I ordered them through the internet and was pleasantly surprised when I received them the next day.

My husband and did this work together however the new part did not fix the problem. There something still wrong with the microwave that we could not determine. This made me sad as I love this microwave.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

I went to LG website enter model number and was given a list of parts that need to be replaced with a percentage of which part fails the most. I order micro switch PS3522738 which arrived and PS3529293 was backordered. I installed the one that arrived. The microwave worked briefly. I reordered and waited for both switches to arrive and installed both. The microwave still doesn't work.

Replaced all 3 switches and Holder for all 3 switches. All is working great now.

Replace (after testing w/ohm meter) diode and locker holder. My door often would not close properly. Microwave let know by saying not shut properly. When disassembled found the top screw mount was hollowed out resulting in it moving on occasion when you close door. First remove casing (special safety torx head) needed for rear screws. Onc e removed all parts available to view or work on. Diode is on the capacitor so caution is needed when removing. Serious shock hazard if touched. Use insulated pliers to remove from capacitor and a phillips on the ground. Test with ohm meter Should have resistance on way and non the opposite. Replaced mine bad. Next the holder 2 phillips screws and its yours. Unplug each switch and remove. Take note to what wires go to what switch and what switch mounts where. Mine had 3 switches. Removed from old holder and put in new. Screwed holder back in place and left scrws loose till re wired. Once wired set the holder by lightly tighting the screws. Try the door till it seats properly ensuring that all 3 switches are working properly. If so thighten screws. If all seems to work as advertised, safely plug in and test unit if heats up un plug and put cover back on micro. Your all set. Happy heating.

Disassembly control panel and remove switch holder; test for micro switches for continuity. Holder had broken post on micro switch holder.

Part arrived next day! Thank you Parts Select. Holder bracket on older GE microwave was broken so MW would not start because door latch did not activate door switch. Removed front panel unplugged all the wiring (after I had taken a picture) to gain access to the holder bracket. Unplugged the three door switches. Removed two screws that held the holder bracket. Installed three new door switches into the new holder bracket. Positioned the bracket behind the frame and screwed back in the two screws. Snapped in this seven wire attachments, set the control panel back in the microwave and secured it with two screws. I only needed one screwdriver and one needle nose plier to remove the wire attachment from a door switch which made it easier to remove. 40 minutes.