KRFF302EBS03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

I'm a 37 year old woman who has never worked on a fridge before, ever.
I was able to google how to run diagnostics on it and determine what the issue was.
Once I received the part I was able to take apart the freezer to get to the motor. Remove the old motor and install the new motor.
This was extremely easy I watched a couple of the youtube videos provided here and now it's running just fine.

AS PER A VERY GOOD VIDEO I FOUND SIMPLY BY SEARCHING FOR THE PART NUMBER. IT MAY HAVE BEEN ON THIS SITE. SADLY, THE PUSHING ON THE CONNECTOR WITH THE 1/2" WRENCH LOOKED A LOT EASIER IN THE VIDEO, OTHERWISE EASY PEAZY AND I HAVE VERY PAINFUL ARTHRITIS IN MY SHOULDERS.

I watched a 5-minute YouTube video ordered the part. It was delivered fast and it took me about 30 minutes to put it on.

I followed the remove and replace instructions in the Part Sect video when I ordered the seal. Pulled out the old seal by hand and installed the new seal. No tools needed, very easy. Took 10 minutes at most.

Thanks for the video showing how to replace the Humidity Slide the knowledge that the end with the flair needed to be slightly bent to SNAP into place was a big help.

Complete replacement of the plastic drawer.

It snapped into place

Just slipped it in. I think it's a very poor design.

Replaced seal on door. Same problem. Went to Lowe's and got several magnetic cabinet door catches. Attached them to the top of the door. (they can be seen sticking up), with the magnet part screwed to the door and the metal plate attached to a small wooden block glued to the top of the body with contact cement. Cost abound $16.

"To infinity and beyond."

I came across this site and looked at the diagrams. Instead of buying a new crisper bin frame, I noticed that the crisper bin frame was missing the frame brace. I purchased the frame brace and installed it in the crisper frame, which was easy to push into the slot. This solved my problem. No more sag!!

Removed the freezer door, by loosening 4 screws and pulling upwards to disengage door from frame. Removed the top basket by pulling up on both slides on the gear shaft sides, note they have retaining tabs you must push in. once the slide / guards are up the top basket comes out. Remove the bottom basket. Remove to angled screws on the top tracks and remove. Remove 6 screws on bottom slides, 3 per side and slide out as a whole unit. Unplug the ice maker, remove 3 screws for it to come out. Note I cleaned mine while it was out with vinegar to remove the mineral build up on it. Remove the screws in the back panel, and pull it forwards. The top vent has 2 clips that hold it in and you will need to remove it prior to fully removing the plate. The plug for the icemaker needs to be removed also. Pull the back plate out. Once the plate is out you can see the fan and access it. Unplug the clips that hold the wiring harness secure. 2 screws to remove the fan assembly. Once fan assembly is out, disassemble it, then reverse assemble it with new parts and fire it up. Mine took right off and running like its brand new.

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!