KRSF705HBS01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

In reading other post for this problem on the Parts Select web site, I checked the solenoids on the Inlet Valve (PN WPW10341320) located behind the refrigerator. A previous post indicated the solenoid should read between 500 and 1500 ohms. In checking, I read around 290 ohms, and confirmed the solenoid was ok. There were other items to check, including the primary water inlet valve and filter. I confirmed water these were ok as the water dispenser on the unit worked properly, and the filter has been replaced on a regular basis. I Ordered a new Ice Maker (PN PS11738120) and replaced as directed in previous post. After several days, the new ice maker did not work. I removed the solenoid connector for the water dispenser which is located next to the ice maker solenoid on the inlet valve, and connected to the ice maker solenoid. I depressed the water flow switch located on the door and the solenoid opened, and dispensed water into the ice tray. I confirmed the solenoid was not the issue. I also was concerned about the ice maker over flow lever that is connected to the ice maker. this switch shuts off the ice maker if the ice level is too high. I checked the old ice maker and determined a blue and yellow wire were connected to the switch, and terminated in the buss connector that connects the ice maker and the refrigerator. in normal condition, the switch should be closed. when I checked the replacement ice maker, I found the switch was open, which kept power from turning on the water supply to the ice maker. Parts Select sent a replacement, and after installation, the unit worked properly.
Issue solved.

Removed the rear cardboard cover and cleaned the area around the compressor and as much of the condensor and fan area as possible. Removed the two base section securing bolts. Jacked the rear of the cabinet up enough to seperate the base from the cabinet. Removed the roller pins and removed and replaced both rollers. Lowered the cabinet back into place, replaced the base bolts and the cardboard cover. The rollers that were sent were of much better quality than the original plastic type and should last the life of the refrigerator. Be careful when moving the fridge as the original rollers may cut into or scratch the flooring.

1. Remove the ice box
2. Unscrew the two Phillips screws on the base of the ice box compartment
3. Lift up the coupling and shaft (be careful because there is a spring between shaft and coupling and washer)
4. Remove old coupling
5. Replace with new coupling and remember to put back the spring
6. Insert back shaft with coupling and washer
7. Screw back on the Phillips screws
8. Replace back the icebox

Removed lower back cover of refrigerator; isolated water at wall, removed existing dual solenoid valve and installed new replacement valve assembly. Replaced back cover.

Unfortunately, this DID NOT correct the problem. Frustrated to spend that kind of money on something that was not needed.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

Turned off power. Placed all frozen food in insulated containers. Removed all interior door parts to access ice maker, then removed the old ice maker. Dried everything with heat gun to make sure there were no ice obstructions. Installed new ice maker, interior door cover and ice bin. Turned on power, replaced food items shortly thereafter. It seems to be operating just fine.

1 Remove ice tray
2 turn off ice maker
3 Remove 4 screws
holding on the
cover over the ice
maker
4 remove the two hex
screws holding in
the ice maker.
Remove ice maker.
5 Reverse this procedure for installation.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Very simple, easy, and quick! Anybody can do it!!

Removed freezer cover from ice maker, unplugged the harness. Installed the new ice maker assembly,plugged in two wire harness and secured the part and cover.
Results was smooth process, no noice from ice dispenser. Pleased with results. Saved on repairs. Thanks Tom

ONCE WE KNEW THE COMPRESSOR WAS NO LONGER FUNCTIONING , USED A MULTI METER TO VERIFY 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WAS PRESENT, FOUND 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WITH NO VOLTAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR. OHMS OUT THE COMPRESSOR, FOUND IT WAS WITH IN SPECS. REPLACED THE INVERTER AND ALL IS WELL ONCE AGAIN.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.