KSF26C6XYY05 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I ussed meter to check the voltage levels and they were fine. I refrence a you video on the refrigerator and foud out that the lights are setup in series like christmas tree lights. If the freezer light is out it will affect the rest of the lights in the refrigerator. I removed the freezer light module and test the light by swapping it with a know working light. the freezer light was the culprit that took the lights out in the side panels and the left side of the refrigerator section. I replaced the freezer light and all the lights now work without issue.

One light and they all go out. So i used one fo lights

Open door and from appliance instruction book
Replace filter

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

Got resistance values from partselect. Coil was not in range. I remove rear cardboard cover,shut off water. Valve located on right side rear. Hoses are quick release. Unplug wire harnesses.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

At first ordered the wrong part. Using the website was difficult to find the correct part, but once I called, it was pretty easy to find the part needed. Part showed up and install was only a few minutes. No more leaking!

Thanks for the help PartSelect!

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".

To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.

The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.

Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.

The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.

Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.

Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.

Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.

The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.

Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Repair was replacing motor kit. I did not use the plastic parts - ejector arm and separator. Went same as others described. I had removed ice maker from refrigerator although this was not necessary to replace motor unit(Please unplug refrigerator whether or not you remove the entire ice maker).
Removed three screws, removed old motor unit, inserted new unit making sure the ice level wire arm end was in slot. Ejector is D shaped so can't go in wrong. Replaced screws and replaced ice maker in freezer. Note - be sure the water tube is in the trough before trying to refasten ice maker.
Added note: If for whatever reason you need to remove ice maker note that there are three mounting screws (others have mentioned this) Completely remove one under middle of ice maker. For the two at top of ice maker - just loosen a few turns. The ice maker can be lifted and pulled away from the wall without removing these screws. Also there is a tab on the electrical wire connector for ice maker at back wall of freezer. Tab must be depressed with a flat tip screw driver while pulling out to remove wire connector. Tab is on wide side of connector facing inside of freezer.

Repair worked. Have lots of ice again.