KUDE40CVWH2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed old tine rows and replaced with the new parts. No tools were needed. Each was replaced one at a time so the old ones could serve as a model for how the new ones were inserted and attached. Not much more complicated than changing a light bulb. Parts appear to be good original equipment quality but quite pricy for these very simple pieces.

All I had to do is lay the shield over the top and sides and used a couple of clips to hold in place as it was slid under the counter top. It couldn’t have been easier.We had searched everywhere for this replacement shield and parts select was the the only ones that had it. Very good service and fast delivery,

Replacing the float switch was fairly easy and straight forward. removed old using adjustable wrench and replaced.

Replacing the door links was not difficult except I needed to pull the dishwasher out and had to disconnect the water line.
reconnecting the water line was the time consuming and frustrating part. Once that was hooked up and tested, i pushed the dishwasher back in place and all is good again.

I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)

Removed the old hose, after loosing metal looking rings. Installed new hose ad finally tight firmly the looking rings, using wrench and socket.

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.

screwed the new cap on, voila. just need to make sure you look and get the right cap; lots of different ones available.

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

after all I read about the problems with Kitchenaid I figured it was the solenoid thats part of the soap dispenser. I took out all the screws on the door...2 long ones are on outer top...seperated it...took out all the screws on dispencer ring...replaced it...pluged it in and put the door back on. we ran it thru a cycle and the door now opens and makes lil soap bubbles.....another job well done by Hank in action! all the parts in door are easy to replace....

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

Pulled dishwasher out from under the counter, removed faulty seal, installed new seal. Easy to understand directions are on web site.

Remove and discard old basket. Put new one in place