LMV1642DS1 LG Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

WORTHLESS...I EMAILED YOU ON 2/7/22 AFTER RECEIVING THE DAMAGED FILTER DUE TO NOT SHIPPING IN A HARD OR SOMETHING IN THE ENVELOPE TO PROTECT THE FILTER FROM BEING BENT.
I HAVE NOT HAD ANY RESPONSE FROM YOU FOR THE DAMAGED FILTER OR WHEN I CAN EXPECT ONE THAT I CAN USE.
UNSATISIFACTORY SERVICE!

Followed owners manual instructions to the letter: removed two top screws, opened the unit door so I could slide out the old filter. We don’t cook much at all in the unit, mostly just heating coffee and reheating leftovers. BUT! The top grill was pretty greasy and needed hot soapy water to clean, including in the depths of the top area. The whole process, especially the company website for part ID and purchase, was slick!

removed old cover put the new one in place found right size screw from my tool box, tightened it.

Needed to raise the part to match the ring. I used peanut butter to hold plastic shim while replacing to hold it in place. Built in Oct. 2009.

I went to LG website enter model number and was given a list of parts that need to be replaced with a percentage of which part fails the most. I order micro switch PS3522738 which arrived and PS3529293 was backordered. I installed the one that arrived. The microwave worked briefly. I reordered and waited for both switches to arrive and installed both. The microwave still doesn't work.

Used fingers to pull damaged cover away from microwave interior body. Used fingers to snap replacement cover into open slots.

Cover snap right into special slots.

Replace (after testing w/ohm meter) diode and locker holder. My door often would not close properly. Microwave let know by saying not shut properly. When disassembled found the top screw mount was hollowed out resulting in it moving on occasion when you close door. First remove casing (special safety torx head) needed for rear screws. Onc e removed all parts available to view or work on. Diode is on the capacitor so caution is needed when removing. Serious shock hazard if touched. Use insulated pliers to remove from capacitor and a phillips on the ground. Test with ohm meter Should have resistance on way and non the opposite. Replaced mine bad. Next the holder 2 phillips screws and its yours. Unplug each switch and remove. Take note to what wires go to what switch and what switch mounts where. Mine had 3 switches. Removed from old holder and put in new. Screwed holder back in place and left scrws loose till re wired. Once wired set the holder by lightly tighting the screws. Try the door till it seats properly ensuring that all 3 switches are working properly. If so thighten screws. If all seems to work as advertised, safely plug in and test unit if heats up un plug and put cover back on micro. Your all set. Happy heating.

Take cover off microwave. Check door switches to determine which one was faulty.Remove and replace faulty switch.

Wanted to see the instructions before I install it.

Took off cover and checked all of circuits (& fuse). Had continuity until I got to turntable motor. Little motor on bottom of micro.It did not have continuity. I thought - looking at circuits - it had to be motor. When I got new motor - I was surprised there was no continuity through it but I was confident it was what I needed . But motor in & tested & worked fine. GE was no help at all! No useful info at all online! No schematics! The motor Had been discontinued ( thankks to info from Partselect.com). Partselect.com found a replacement part (& #).

i unplugged the unit,unscrewed the outer shell so that all the wiring and internal components were visible.starting at the first of three micro switches i removed the slip on terminals installed the alligator clips too the wires so the switch would now be bypassed.i made sure the wires and clips were not touching anything plugged unit in and it worked.i then installed the new switch and closed up the outer shell

Removed door from microwave and then popped the inside widow trim ring off. Removed 4 screws from the window bracket, replaced the latch with a new part and then assembled.

very simple

Pop old one out and replaced it with new one.

Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.