MER4351AAB Maytag Range - Instructions

Pull out the range...hardest part.
Remove back panel.
Remove/install switch
PS,
This is second switch I had to replace. Try making them in the United States.

just plugged it in!

This was very easy. All I did was unscrew the brackets from the back of the oven holding the element. Then I removed the wires from the bad element and reversed the procedure adding the new element. It was easy to order the right part and I got the item in plenty of time for the Thanksgiving holiday!

Removed element's two mounting screws and disconnected the wire leads on each end. Connected wire leads to the new element and replaced mounting screws. Only took a few minutes to make the change. The oven is good as new.

This is the second use of Parts Select. First time was for another obscure part for an old microwave, which also worked out VERY well. Both appliances still in action.

Disconnected power to the range, Took off the oven door removed two screws and disconnected the two electrical connections to the heating element. Made the two connections to the new element and replace the two holding screws. Replace the oven door and plugged in the power cord. Turned on the oven to test and was finished.

Replaced it

Moved the stove, unplugged it. took the back off, took out old board installed the new one. It was just that easy and saved us from buying a new stove.

When ordering the replacement part, read the posts on how to replace the bake element. Just follwed their lead. The only difficulty is getting a hold of the wire at the back of the range that the bake element plugs into. There wasen't much play in the wire.
PS Be sure and remove the range door or have very long arms.

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.

I took the back panel off, removed the old lens, installed the new lens. How easy to order from home, receive the part, do the repair and pay less than it costs to simply drive to the parts house. Cool....

Power turned off. Door of the oven lifted off. Four screws removed, old element pulled out to reveal electrical connectors. Wires easily removed, and element discarded. New element connected to the two conductors, four screws installed and the job was completed.
Very easy. Took about 10 minutes.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.