MHWE900VJ00 Maytag Washer - Instructions

1. Remove bottom panel (3 screws below). 2. Remove top panel (3 screws back). 3. Remove detergent dispenser (remove T screw in front.) 4. Carefully remove control panel is plastic so be careful not to break it. 5. Pull broken bellow from front and spring loaded clamp will come lose. 6. Push away bellow. 7. Remove cables from door lock. 8. Remove front panel screws (4 - 2 on top and 2 in bottom). 9. Unscrew bellow's clamp with flat screw driver or not driver. 10. Remove worn bellow. 11. Bellow has notch on top (Use as reference to replace. 11. Clean all surfaces. 12. Install new bellow to drum. 13. Screw clamp over of bellow not too tight. Don't want to break the seat. 14. Replace all in the reverse order and for the front of the bellow refer to my previous article (story) on front latch replacement.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

Son-in law did the work he was finished in about 20 minutes the repair guy wanted $249.00 to take out and put in. PLUS part.

I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.

Unplugged washer , used shop vac to drain water through drain hose on washer. Removed both hoses from old pump. Removed electric plug, removed 2 screws from bottom of the pump. Then reverse the process.

I purchased a new bellows from this site I followed their instructions. Just tricky getting the inner clamp on aligned and tightened.

Pull spring wire on front. Remove large hose lamp at tub. Reinstall in reverse order.

It was fast and pretty easy to do.

Only needed a pair of pliers for the clamps on the hoses connected to the pump. Removed the old pump ( no tools needed) and reinstalled the hoses. Works like a charm!

This repair is something even the most casual DIY'er could accomplish. What made this even easier for me was the fact that my washer was on a pedestal so accessing the 1/4" screws were extremely easy. There is no need to tilt or lift the washer. Just open the drawer and all three screws are visible. It also made draining the water out of the washer very convenient. The video perfectly describes how to accomplish the repair and allowed me to diagnose the problem by taking off the panel, opening the trap door and allowing the water to drain into a small trashcan until all the water is removed. I could physically see that the impeller was detached from the motor and found the culprit that caused the problem - a small vile of eye drops... From there, ordered the pump, two days later, replaced it with the new and I swear the new pump must be stronger than the original because towels come out near dry after a spin cycle. Very satisfying repair!