MRT118FFFH06 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

I actually followed the instructions by William. He did a great job. I ran into some difficulty because the wire connector on the replacement motor didn't match the old connector. We had to replace the connector on the new motor to match the wiring harness, which was easier than trying to match the connector on the motor. Had the connectors matched, the replacement would have taken less than 30 minutes to complete.

First i pulled the electrical plug from the socket so the refrigator was off than I removed 5 screws (3 of those holding the ice maker). pulled the icemaker toward the front and removed it I than took off the back of the freezer panel,(the back panel was removed by pulling the top of the panal towards me it came right out of the freezer) I removed an additional 2 screws holding the evaporator fan motor. Than I used pliers to squeeze the mounting bracket tabs (white tabs BOTTOM OF MOTOR BRACKET). I then disconnected the electrical FAN MOTOR PLUG and removed the motor. i than pulled the fan blade from the motor (fan blade is only a pressed onto the motor shaft.I than pressed the fan blade back unto the fan motor and reversed the above directions

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Discovered that the fan in the freezer was not working properly. Removed the ice maker, paneling, wire harness and inserted new motor. Worked immediately and began circulating the cold air into the refrigerator.

first remove ice maker 1-screw on the bottom all the way out and two screws on the top half way out slide up and out and unplug wiring as you remove then remove back panel unplug ground wire remove screws that hold fan assembly unplug wiring remove pressed on fan blade put new motor in reasemble and it was good to go

After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

Following the info on another post from partselect site: Unplug the main refridgerator line from the outlet. Removed icemaker(didn't have this hooked up to operate), 2 screws and 1 hex nut; removed back panel of freezer wall (interior), be mindful of wiring harness on the left of panel, 2 hex nuts: unplugged fan motor from wiring harness, removed motor with 2 screws, gently, but firmly pulled fan blade off (a little tricky due to housing bracket around it) carefully noting 2 soft rubber gaskets that holds the unit in bracket. replace motor with new one ... follow above steps in reverse. helpful to have a small flashlight. make sure soft rubber gaskets are seated in place. Fan blade requires a firm but gentle push back on the metal post ... bottom of back panel seats over an opening in order for it to fit snug against the wall. I am totally satisfied with the info and seamless, expediant service with partselect ... thank-you so much ..