MSB26C6MDE00 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Repair was replacing motor kit. I did not use the plastic parts - ejector arm and separator. Went same as others described. I had removed ice maker from refrigerator although this was not necessary to replace motor unit(Please unplug refrigerator whether or not you remove the entire ice maker).
Removed three screws, removed old motor unit, inserted new unit making sure the ice level wire arm end was in slot. Ejector is D shaped so can't go in wrong. Replaced screws and replaced ice maker in freezer. Note - be sure the water tube is in the trough before trying to refasten ice maker.
Added note: If for whatever reason you need to remove ice maker note that there are three mounting screws (others have mentioned this) Completely remove one under middle of ice maker. For the two at top of ice maker - just loosen a few turns. The ice maker can be lifted and pulled away from the wall without removing these screws. Also there is a tab on the electrical wire connector for ice maker at back wall of freezer. Tab must be depressed with a flat tip screw driver while pulling out to remove wire connector. Tab is on wide side of connector facing inside of freezer.

Repair worked. Have lots of ice again.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Got new part. Removed cover. Tape at top had to be pried loose from door.

Had to turn cup cover from top portion to access power wire. Door and light wires had to be unplugged and moved from clips.

Two screws at bottom removed. Motor unit was freed up and set on table.

Had to remove bottom white section due to light Assembly was not on new section. Removed three screws. Removed three screws from new unit.

Attached old white section with light to new motor unit.

Reattached power wire routed into cup and plugged in. Cup turned clockwise so as to attach.Other wires re-routed and plugged back in.

Cover section screws inserted and reattached.

Turned on/off button back on. Checked all light switches in refrigerator and freezer section to ensure operating. Put bin back in and closed door. No warning lights present. Approximately one hour later, bin had ice in it.

i didn't repair replace capacitor, bi metal defrost thermostat and still not freeze also replace light door switch any suggestion thanks

Just plugged it in

I use a Screw drive a Nutdriver set Needlenose Pliers and it took 30mins to fix.

Took the old one out and put the new one in

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Just follow youtube examples. Work in freezer. Troubles was I didn't fix the problem. Experts say thermostat is the best one to replace (53%). Anyway they are not always right.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

with vidio