MVWC565FW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Well, first investigated and found loose nut on drive clutch. First take off the two screws with nut drive then cover off using a screwdriver blade to snap off the cover. Then socket ratchet to take off the nut on drive clutch. take off belt by slowly rotating the drive gear. two screws that hold the electronics to the upper drive clutch and put aside, so you can snap off the cover for drive clutch on upper part with screwdriver and off the parts come and install whole unit back as took it apart. Line up the new upper clutch so that is position as was before. (Using parts diagram helps a lot as www. partsselect.com has for you or Maytag.com.) Then put the electronic part board back on and the gear and nut. Make sure it is tight by several attempts to make sure it's snugged up good and then slowly roll belt back on the pulley and motor drive. Put your cover guard back on with two screws and done.

ordered hub and it shipped quickly. I was able to put the hub in place and screw the screws in. you want to tighten them down slowly and go around to each screw tightening a little at a time so you don't break the hub. as you tighten the screws down the hub slides down flush. its impossible to just push the hub on with your hand. Buttoned it back up and got caught up on laundry. good day when the washer is fixed.

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

Replaced the gears that were eaten up, the retainer and the actuated. All parts but the spring are plastic. Did all according to your instructions. Happy to report all went well. Washer is working again.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

unfasten top from back, slide top forward and lift up, remove switch and cable (one piece), in stall new switch and cable, put top down and slide back, reinstall screws.

After removal of wash plate bolt. Apply Liquid Wrench oil to wash plate spline shaft. Give time for oil to penetrate. In the time it took to disassemble the motor and gearbox the oil had worked. Give the wash plate a good knock with a rubber mallet several times. After that I was able to wiggle off the wash plate by hand without breaking anything. Be sure to pull straight up on the wash plate, any twisting or torquing will bind the spline and the wash plate wont move.
The PartSelect YouTube video was perfect for the other parts of the repair.

Watched a video to get a general idea. Moved washer to garage. Raised lid, supported with s-hook and light chain. Front springs were easy, except no hole for the rod to hang in so used chain and small screwdriver through mounting hole. Back springs were not as easy. Finally removed the back panel to get to the rods. Bingo, much easier and only took 5 min to remove the back panel. reassemble and she works like a charm. Suggest to find a video reflecting your particular brand and model as all are similar but uniquely different. Easy project though.

Used video provided,but while reinstalling shocks pull the shock absorbers thru holes in washer deck using a stiff wire or a metal coat hanger will also work. This made installation so much easier!

Removed center cap, loosened center nut, pry lightly up on center plate and tap center nut. Center plate comes loose, remove nut, remove center plate. Pry lock clip out and remove, remove screw with electric impact (screw drive will work, but slower), remove drive hub. Install new drive hub (be sure to check screw hole alignment), install and tighten screws (be sure to follow a skip pattern and bring it down even), install lock clip, install center plate, install and tighten nut, replace center cap. Done!

First, I checked the belt before ordering and then decided to order the belt, capacitor, and clutch assembly (if I needed to replace). I replaced the belt noticing the older belt came right off and new one was tighter going on. I replaced the capacitor since I had it handy and it can be known to cause this smell also. After setting washer back up and started a cycle I noticed the spin cycle would not start properly so I thought maybe the capacitor (new one) was faulty or just not the exact match even though it was said to be. I replaced my older capacitor back on and again ran cycle and it ran great. Thus I decided to send the parts which were not used. I would recommend this site as I have used them in the past before on other items. They ship fast and have a great return policy if parts not used.

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

- Shut off power to the washer
- Removed cap on top of agitator
- First, I tried using a ratchet set to remove the bolt that is inside the agitator at the baseplate. Tub would spin when I tried this method, so I used an air impact with long extensions. One press of the impact and the bolt loosened.
- Tied a pair of shoelaces together and stuffed them inside the seam around the agitator baseplate. I put the shoelaces half way around the baseplate. Get it in the seam then with two hands, each with an end of the shoelace, pull up on the baseplate. Success!!
- Installed the new agitator with base plate and then used the ratchet set to tighten the bolt. Didn’t want to take a chance on stripping the bolt inside the agitator with the air impact when tightening.

Unplugged, Removed rear screws
Pulled lid forward, and lifted, rested against wall
Removed rim piece, agitator, my wife cleaned them
Removed, replaced suspension rods one at a time, replaced plastic seats as I went
Removed old hub, cleaned and lubed gear and replaced, used a towel so screws did fall in the basin holes
Put back together
Used instructions to recalibrate
Tested it out, good to go
notes….the old parts don’t really appear damaged to the untrained eye, probably should send the bumper padding with this kit, the recal instructions were money!

Our 5 year old Kenmore washing machine broke. The first symptom was that the clothes would come out completely wet. This was due to no spin cycle. The second symptom was that the washing machine had little to no agitation. The lid still locked shut, there was no odor, and you could hear the machine running.

In the event a machine does not agitate or spin, the diagnostics on this website will lead you to believe that drive hub assembly or shift actuator is the problem. The drive hub assembly is by far the more common repair (the pieces are made of plastic and are designed to wear out). If you are torn, go with the drive hub kit repair. That's what it was.

There were some surprises after carefully watching the how to video. First, the agitator in my machine was very tall and required a socket wrench extension to reach the drive hub nut. This will require two sets of hands. Second, the drive hub nut was stuck to the point where I nearly gave up. WD-40 and degreaser did not work to loosen. I ended up pouring a half teaspoon of powdered soap onto the stuck nut to get more grip on the nut. This, along with two sets of hands, got it loose. Third, calibrating machine was barely touched on in the video but this is extremely difficult, the instructions that come with the part were insufficient, and the videos on the internet are not that good. In the end, I'm not sure that the machine ever calibrated. In essence, the machine is re-calibrated by turning the switch in a specific sequence of right to left. Lights are then supposed to flash. This never did anything. I ended up opening and shutting the lid 10 times in 10 seconds as this was allegedly a way to recalibrate.

Note: 2018 and later washing machines suck because of California and the federal government rules and pressure to make them "green". Well, they don't work that well anymore as a result. Keep this in mind when you vote.