PFSF2MJYGWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered the new part (water valve). Took off the bad one followed directions on you video. The video explained the process making it easy to do.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

First I was told the compressor was bad. A quick YouTube lookup diagnosed it as 1 of 3 thing. Starter relay, motherboard, or compressor. First two are cheap, compressors are not. A rattle in the relay will tell you if it’s bad. Since there wasn’t I looked to the motherboard. A burnspot indicated it was the board that was bad. Partsselect had the cheapest board at the same quality. Fast delivery and I simply plugged in the ports to install. There was a small cover with some bolts to take off but nothing intricate. Plug and play and I was up and running. Great experience with the website and no previous experience with repairs of this type.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

Remove rear plate. Remove fan bracket. Replace fan gaskets, blade and motor. Replace bracket. Replace rear plate. Very simple. Fixed the problem.

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix

The clean-up after I broke the original glass took longer than replacing it. Fast, easy and no tools required.

The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refrigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explanation. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call.

After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!

I was so pleased I got the correct part on the first try!
I know manufacturers use plastic because it's cheap and lightweight, but these parts break SO EASILY and it's ridiculous. At any rate, I used a Phillips head screwdriver to take off the old part- top and bottom. Then I needed another set of hands (or use the painter's tape) to hold it in place while I screwed in the new part, top and bottom. (2 screws each). Other than needing someone to help hold it in place while I did the first 2 screws, it was simple and one person can do it --You use the masking tape to hold it for the first two top screws if you have no help. Thank you