WED8300SW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I'm still waiting on my idler pulley. It arrived at Fed EX depot in Tracy CA on December 14th and has still not been shipped. So it is pretty fucking hard for me to install it! Maybe if you had customer service that would answer their phones or reply to my Emails would be helpful

I followed the repair Vedic and took the drum out and replaced the pulls and bracket. Very straightforward job. Dryer is now as quite as the first day we bought it.

Received in two days, open box, installed part. Pretty easy, fast service. I'm a repeat customer and will use these guys in the future.

We watched the video at whirlpool.com! Made it so simple anyone could have done it!

Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.

I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE UNPLUG THE POWER AND TURN OFF THE GAS SUPPLY 1. unscrew the 3 nut screws at the back to remove the cover lid. 2. pull the control console cable from the electronic board. (only 3 wires on it).3. unscrew the 2 nut screws of the control console then remove it by pulling up.4. unscrew the 5 screws to remove the door. (pull little up to unhinged then remove). 6. unscrew the 5 nut screws to remove the lower siding. 7. unscrew the copper 4 nut screws then remove the lint suction fixture 8. unscrew the 4 nut screws to remove door fixture ,then just lay next to the machine.(the wires are long enough so you don't need to unplug and separate it from the machine.9. remove the belt by pulling the idler pulley towards the motor pulley (against the tension spring) 10. remove the drum by lifting a little bit upward. 11. remove the plastic triangular lock using a small screw driver then remove the idler pulley wheel then install the replacement. (clean your machine using a vacuum cleaner and remove all the lints). 12. install back the drum, be sure to set the drum belt to the right position. (groove on drum side). 13. install back the belt to the pulley the same procedure as to remove it. 14. assemble back what you have removed. end.

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

I assumed that since the display was not working properly that the cause must be the user interface. To remove the interface you must first unplug the power to the unit. In the back of the top of the dryer are 2 5/16" screws that need to be removed (Nutdriver). Once removed, the top panel of the dryer can be slid back exposing the drum and the back of the user interface. The interface can then be pried outwards to unsnap it from the housing. Once you've freed this panel, follow the wires back to where they plug into the electrical connection near the drum and unplug the interface from this connection. With this complete, flip the panel over so that you're looking at the back of it and carefully pry the tabs out (screwdriver)so that the inner interface can be removed. The selector knob will come off and will need to be put back on once you've added the new part. Now add the new interface, ensuring that all tabs click back into place, add the selector knob and route wires back to the electrical connection and plug in. Snap the front interface panel back into place and re-install top dryer panel over drum and replace the 2 5/16" screws. Return power to the dryer and you've finished.

watched videos on this site

Removed the back panel and saw that the idler pulley was worn out. It only took me 5min. To replace, it was very easy to replace.

I had already taken the coil out of the heating housing to check for a break in the heating element. I took this time to vacuum out all the lint inside the cabinet. I slid the new coil into the housing and reattached the wires. Plugged the dryer back in and turned it on to make sure the coil heated up. It worked so I put all the screws back in and fastend the front back on and were in bussiness!

By watching the video it made the job much easier than I thought it would be. I was very pleased with the speedy delivery of the Dryer kit I had ordered. I had called a local repair facility and they wanted twice as much for the same parts.

Took off back of dryer Undid belt from belt adjuster pulled and took off adjuster put new one on redid belt and put back on dryer. Done

I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.