WETLV27HW1 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

replaced the agitator cogs, bearing and the O-Ring. I looked all over Houston for these part, but found them on PartSelect. Had them in about 3 days. The repair only took about 30 minutes.

I saved a bunch of money!!
Thanks.

The repair was easy, first you take out the fabric softener dispenser, you will then see a plastic cap at the bottom. the plastic cap pulls right out. Once you remove plastic cap you will see the top of a 11mm screw. Use an 11mm socket with 6 inch extension to remove the screw. The screw is a fine thread so it takes alot of turns to unscrew. After removing screw the whole agitator should pull out of washing machine. The agitator has two parts, lets just say a top and a bottom. Once out of the machine turn the agtitator upside down and tap the top part with a rubber mallet, it will fall off easily and the cam will come out with it. Once you have done this you will see how easy it is to replace the cam and put everything back together. My washer works like new. my only trouble was finding the part, until i found this web-site Part Select, The Whirlpool site did not even offer a diagram for my washer. So thank you Part Select from me and coworkers for the part and fast delivery. I can now wash my clothes again. Yeah !!!

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)

After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.

First I removed the back cover (several screws). Then, I disconected wires from the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse (both of these parts were included in the Thermal Cut-Off Kit). Then, I removed four screws that hold these two parts, replaced the parts, put the screws back, and attached the wires. Finally, I put back the cover.

My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.

I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.

super fast shipping, got the part in two days, and had it done in 15-20 min, remove the front pannel, remove the belt and tenssioner,took the drum out , took the old rollers , lubed the shafts,replaced the old rollers with the new ones, intalled the drum back, the tenssioner and the new belt, reinstalled the front pannel, and done...easy and fast job, like new dryer, works nice...save some money...the new one will do the same..just dry the clothes.

First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure out you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!

First, I removed the softner cup from the top of the agitator. Second, I removed the plastic seal by pulling it out. I then used a socket to remove the bolt holding the agitator down. I then removed the agitiator from the machine and seperated the upper and lower agitator by placing my feet on the lower agitator and pulling up. The dog-ears were in the upper agitaotr section and easy to see and replace. I re-assembled in reverse order. The whole process took less than 30 minutes.

Removed top cap and one nut from agirtator then removed complete assembly. Replaced new assembly nut and cap.

Measured resistance on thermostats & heating element. Found thermostat open so ordered replacement part and heat again.

Repair was simple, after finding the correct part from Partselect. Exact match. Old part out with removal of one bolt, new agitator assembly installed in five minutes. Works great and saved me from buying a new washer. Cost of repair about $80.00, replace washing machine, about $600.00.