WFE745H0FS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I pulled the range out from the wall, then unplugged it from the wall outlet. I removed the oven door & set it aside. Removed the screws covering the rear wiring shield, then disconnected the 2 leads from the bake element. Unscrewed the screws holding the oven floor pan, then unscrewed the screws holding in the original element. Replaced it, screwed everything back together, and pushed the oven back against the wall. Took me about 30 minutes, and now the oven works as well as it did when we first bought it.

I've replaced oven heating elements before, but never in a 3 year old electric range oven. I watched the video again after the element arrived, and installation was easy with only 2 screw drivers. I was concerned about the repair when I saw the severity of damage to the old heating element and the underside of the bottom oven metal/ceramic plate, which was almost burned (a hole) through. After finishing the installation the oven showed it was preheating but no heat was being generated. A couple of phone calls later, a Whirlpool repair technician told me the main control panel needed replaced- $385 much higher cost due to chip shortage, inflation, and would take 2 months to arrive due to supply chain issues. So I don't know yet if the element is good or not. I am disappointed that the element blew in a relatively new appliance, but a total cost of $600 in a 3 year old oven is still probably better than $1200 for a new oven which is double the price I paid in 2018. Part failures never come at a good time but 2 months without an oven at Christmas & New Years is added frustration. When the heating element burned out there was a loud buzzing sound associated with the failure, which I've never experienced before and there were flames coming from underneath the bottom plate in the oven for an extended period of time. The repair for the heating element itself went smooth, but be advised you may get into more than just the element.

I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.

The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.

Again thanks for the help.

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

Unplugged stove-Removed oven door two screws held the oven bottom pan removed same to observe the element removed thre fasteners removed inspection cover on back of the oven pulled off two electric wires replaced element reassembled easy job

Repair has not been made yet still waiting for the part. The part is on order and was told it would be shipped in 1/3 business days. Still waiting for the part to come from China. This is the problem with parts being made out side the U. S. A.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.

Unplug range, remove cover from back of range disconnect red wires from element spade connectors. Remove oven racks, remove two screws from back of bottom tray, and remove tray. Remove screw from element bracket and remove element. Install new element and repeat steps in reverse order. Done.

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Followed a video I found online showing how to replace the bottom bake element. It was very easy to do. I simply unplugged the over, removed the back wire cover and detached the damaged element connectors.

I then removed the bottom oven cover which conceals the element. Unscrewed and removed the damaged element and replaced it with the new one. Connected the wires to the new element and then Installed the bottom cover along with the back wire cover and plugged the oven back in. It was really this easy.