WTW8500DC4 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions
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Loud grinding noise when the washer was in use.
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
Parts Used:
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Charles from STARKVILLE, MS
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Washer making noise on spin cycle
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
Parts Used:
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Roy from MAYNARDVILLE, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
19 of 27 people
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Water Inlet Valve inoperative
Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.
Parts Used:
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Brian from FAIRBORN, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
12 of 14 people
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Faulty fill valve
Did troubleshooting after code LF showed on indicator window. Did troubleshooting; checked hoses for obstructions and small filters on inlets. All good. Ordered new fill valve. Came in a few days, good service.
Removed control panel top by removing screws on back of control panel, then by pushing putty knife under each side to release spring clips. Carefully lifted cover and set onto lid. Photographed fill valve at left side as you are standing in front of machine. Removed screws with small ratchet. Carefully removed wires via clips. Lifted out valve.
Attached wires to new, set back into its place, replaced screws, tightened but not too tight so as to break part. Replaced control panel, pushing downward to engage spring clips, then replace screws on back.
Re attached hoses, ensuring they were on the correct sides, plugged machine into power, ran through cycle and VIOLA!! Worked perfectly!! After a couple weeks, still working perfectly! Was VERY happy it was only fill valve and not mother board as the cost was a fraction.
I found trouble shooting videos to be very helpful. Your service quite good.
Removed control panel top by removing screws on back of control panel, then by pushing putty knife under each side to release spring clips. Carefully lifted cover and set onto lid. Photographed fill valve at left side as you are standing in front of machine. Removed screws with small ratchet. Carefully removed wires via clips. Lifted out valve.
Attached wires to new, set back into its place, replaced screws, tightened but not too tight so as to break part. Replaced control panel, pushing downward to engage spring clips, then replace screws on back.
Re attached hoses, ensuring they were on the correct sides, plugged machine into power, ran through cycle and VIOLA!! Worked perfectly!! After a couple weeks, still working perfectly! Was VERY happy it was only fill valve and not mother board as the cost was a fraction.
I found trouble shooting videos to be very helpful. Your service quite good.
Parts Used:
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Marian from GREYBULL, WY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
11 of 12 people
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washer would not fill, all 4 valve solenoid checked good.
The valve is a 4 solenoid valve, which has Temp. sensor molded into the valve body mixer center outlet. No mention of it in the troubleshooting. it has a 2 pin plug. it was shorted zero ohms.
New one measure open infinity. I also purchased the control module as the troubleshooting said to if solenoid checked good which all 4 read 1310 ohms , i purchased and replaced control module, no help. the guide is outdated for these new high tech washers. If this happens again. I will just unplug the 2 pin plug on bottom of valve assembly. By the way the 2 clips that hold the washer top in place are very difficult to remove and re install.
New one measure open infinity. I also purchased the control module as the troubleshooting said to if solenoid checked good which all 4 read 1310 ohms , i purchased and replaced control module, no help. the guide is outdated for these new high tech washers. If this happens again. I will just unplug the 2 pin plug on bottom of valve assembly. By the way the 2 clips that hold the washer top in place are very difficult to remove and re install.
Parts Used:
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Dewey from BURKBURNETT, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
11 of 14 people
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Worn out splines connecting transmission driveshaft to agitator.
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
Parts Used:
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Thomas from MILLBURY, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
9 of 10 people
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Washer plate replacement
As women, myself and my daughter completed this fairly simple repair. The replacement washer plate was top quality and included the washplate replacement screw. Additionally, we purchased a tube of lock tight to further secure bolt placement. The most difficult part of the repair is to disengage old screw and securely replace with new one. Very pleased with fast delivery Excellent customer service and top quality part.
Thanks
Thanks
Parts Used:
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Belita from VANCEBURG, KY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
11 of 17 people
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replaced drain hose that was missing
slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys
Parts Used:
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Delmar from EAST TROY, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers
11 of 18 people
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I cross threaded the cold water hook up to the washer
If you take the back off the machine, it's a lot easier to detach the control bridge. Saved a lot of time and did not need to stretch your fingers
Parts Used:
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Steven from Fall City, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Wrench set
9 of 15 people
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Lid would not lock, therefore, washer would not start.
I watched a YouTube video first. Followed instructions exactly and had washer going in 30 minutes!!!! Part that I ordered was an exact fit! Thanks to partselect.com!
Parts Used:
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Patricia R from BROOKHAVEN, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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washer would start then stop with everything flashing
UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL PLUG
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the contacts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the contacts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done
Parts Used:
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Lee from MURPHY, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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During the wash cycle it would go in presoak mode and shut down
I watched a you tube video of how to perform the repair. First I unplugged the washing machine before beginning the repair. Turned the water valve off and then disconnected the water line from the back of the washing machine with pliers.I used the nut driver to remove the screws/nut type heads from the metal cover from the back of washing machine .This gives you access to slide the top of the washing machine forward.The top of the washing machine has to be moved forward to lift the top upward. Tape can be used to prevent the washing machine lid from opening and possibly getting damaged. I just held onto the lid and rested it against my basement wall. The control panel has two bent shaped metal brackets that must be pushed slightly forward. Then the control panel can be removed to begin removing the control board. There are 6-7 bolt head screws to remove from the backside of the control panel. This permits the removal of the control board and unplug the wire from the control board. Then you just reverse the process to put everything back together. I recommend placing the various screws from the control board and the screws from the back of the machine that holds the metal cover separated. This was the first time I attempted a repair to a washing machine and went very well . I hope this helps you out on this type of repairs .
Parts Used:
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Tom from MIDLAND, PA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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broken lid latch
move washer to get to backside, remove necessary screws and hoses, slid washer top over, replaced lid mechanism.
Parts Used:
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James from CLINTON TWP, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Top panel was rusted above soap drawer
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Cheryl from ELMIRA, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 2 people
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Water inlet valve leaking
Turn off water and remove inlet hoses
Remove of control Tower
Remove control tower and unplug from rest of washer
Remove water inlet valve and install new valve
Reverse operations
Remove of control Tower
Remove control tower and unplug from rest of washer
Remove water inlet valve and install new valve
Reverse operations
Parts Used:
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Shaun from Cardiff by the Sea, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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