Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 140 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 20 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 140 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 20 degrees.
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Replacing your Maytag Dryer Cycling Thermostat (Limit: 140-20)
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★★★★★
★★★★★
Michael K - January 25, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Part came as expected, dryer working now, very good repair information available on website
★★★★★
★★★★★
Lee L - May 16, 2018
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
The part came fast.My appliance is working again
★★★★★
★★★★★
Machell L - April 25, 2018
Verified Purchase
Great company
Part came quickly, customer service answered questions quickly as well. would do business with them in the future of course
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.6 / 5.0, 11 reviews.
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Dryer running but not heating
Pull the front off of the dryer found the front Found the drum front glides, worn out and rubbing metal to metal also tested the cycling thermostat found that it was faulty, causing the no heat problem. Ordered the cycling thermostat and new glide kits to prevent any further problems.
Dryer control would not advance past auto dry setting although clothes were dry and the temperature of air remained constant hot/warm
clothes did dry . timer did advance until auto dry, then stopped even though heat and tumbling continued. Replaced temperture cycling thermostat and dryer operating perfectly. This is old dryer and very well built, hate to get rid of it !!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe another 10-20 years??????
... Read more BC
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William from Waterford, NY
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Dryer runs but no heat.
I went ahead and replaced all the thermostats, heater assembly and jump wire which was very easy after watching the installation videos. The new heater assembly was a little tough to get to fit in. but managed to get it to fit. Turned it on but to my surprise no heat. Someone earlier had told me that a friend had the same problem and it w
... Read moreas a faulty circuit breaker but I didn't think that could of been the problem. I then checked it and sure enough that is what was the problem, it was only get power on one leg of the breaker. Put in a new circuit breaker and every thing works great. I don't mind putting in the new parts at least I have a piece of mind that that it's in good shape and have back up spare parts if needed.
START UP WITH HEAT, THEN SHUT DOWN WARM BUT CAN'T DRY
THOUGHT IT WAS THE COILS BUT METERED OK, THOUGHT IT WAS THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT, NO. IT WAS THE HEAT (FAN) SQUIRREL CAGE FAILED AND WAS NOT SPINNING, AND NOT DRAWING OFF THE HEAT SO THE HIGH LIMIT SHUT THE DRYER DOWN. BUT THE SYMPTOMS WERE COILS OR LIMIT THERMOSTATS !!!. IT WAS SO EASY TO ORDER I REBUILT EVERYTHING FOR 200 DOLLARS,
... Read moreNEW ROLLERS, NEW BEARING GLIDES, NEW PULLEY, BELT. WHY SPEND TIME REPAIRING AGAIN. IT WAS EASY ENOUGH TO DO. HOPE I GET 5 YEARS OUT OF IT BEFORE THE NEXT REPAIR
Removed front of dryer. Checked heat element with meter. Continunity good, then manually moved all sections to see if any cracked. Checked all wiring for condition and no problems found. All terminal ends found to be good. Per my previous experience, removed all thermostats. Have a total of five Maytag dryers, experience tells me to rep
... Read morelace all at once, Dryer now works.
the drum belt broke so the dryer is 30 years old & this is first problem so i replaced other parts also
took off front panel took off front drum cover, removed drum, replaced rear carrer rollers, drilled out pop rivets on front tub cover and replaced drum glides, replaced all three thermostats, replaced drum belt idler wheel,replaced motor drum belt, put front panel back on , pluged it back into power and it run like new. We purchased this
... Read moreMaytag set in 1987 new and this was the first time for any repairs of any kind, so while it was all apart I replaced other parts also, since it was 30 years old, maybe it will last another 30 years. " I won't I am 83 years old " you have to love maytag
After replacing the cycling thermostat failed to fix the problem, I jumped the Dampness sensor, overtemp sensor and flame sensor - no change, flame went out after 15 to 30 seconds. Ordered the replacement coils for the gas control and reconnected all sensors: solved!
Ronald from Chardon, OH
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
5 of 7 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Heating coil not staying on,water collecting in exhaust
Front panel came off with two philips head screws. First thermostat was behind a 2 screw sheet metal barrier. Second was far right and slightly cramped, but a right angle rachet drive and phillips head bit did the trick. The wire colors were an exact match to the OEM thermostats. So far the dryer is running shorte
... Read morer, and there is almost no water in the vent tube or the face of the dryer door opening. A cheap fix for an old reliable dryer. Whle you're in the guts, always vacuum out all the lint and dust on all parts. Stupid to leave it dirty and run less efficient.
First let me say that this dryer is at least 30 years old. The only repairs it has needed up to this point were a set of belts and lint screen holder.
I researched and found a list of items to check for dryer not heating. Only 3 items were listed as possible causes, the Heating Element, Cycling Thermostat, and Heating Element T
... Read moreerminal & Insulator.
First and most important step - UNPLUG THE DRYER FROM THE WALL
To access the cycling thermostat, I removed the back panel. The thermostat is located on top of the blower housing and is easily accessable. I was unable to test the old part.
Accessing the heating element and terminal insulators is a bit more difficult as they are located in the fron of the dryer around the door opening. Further research showed the way to access these parts was to remove the cabinet from the chassis. After photographing the wiring connections, I disconnected the cycling thermostat and motor connections. Next, I removed the 3 screws at the bottom of each side panel. With the dryer door removed (it lifts off when open), I simply lifted the cabinet up over the drum. I recommend having someone assist with this as it is awkward and a little heavy. Lay the cabinet on its front on a rug to keep from scratching the finish. The heating element and insulators can be inspected at this time.
Having found no breaks in the element or insulators, I assumed the problem was the cycling thermostat and ordered one. When I got it (less than 2 days), I installed it and reassembled the cabinet to the chassis. I plugged the dryer in and set the timer. Still no heat!
After looking at the schematic, I found 2 other possible causes for no heat. The motor contains a centrifugual switch (closes when the motor spins) which I was not able to check. There is also a HIGH LIMIT thermostat on the shroud that holds the heating element. I decided I could test this part by by-passing it. I unplugged the dryer and removed the back once again. I reached past the drum from the back (not easy to do) and disconnected the 2 wires from the thermostat and connected them together. I plugged the dryer back in and started the dryer. It heated up like it should. I then ordered the high limit thermostat. After removing the cabinet once again (easier 2nd time), I installed the high limit thermostat and reassembled the unit.
The Dryer is working fine and hopefully should last another 25-30 years.
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William from Exmore, VA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
18 of 24 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Dryer wouldn't start
First I took the back and front off and vacuumed up the built up lint. I couldn't see anything glaringly wrong, so I started looking online and found www.partselect.com . I went through the list of things to check one by one until I found the thermal fuse to be blown. A sticker inside the dryer said "Replace cycling therm. when repla
... Read morecing thermal fuse," so I followed that advice and replaced the thermostat. I followed the directions on the same link.
Dryer has been working fine since. I cleaned lots of built up lint, which it seems may have been the culprit.
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3 questions answered by our experts.
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Gilbert
July 23, 2019
Can i check this part with ohm meter and which leads
For model number LDG412can
Hello Gilbert. Thank you for your question. Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature. If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. I hope this helps!
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John
September 26, 2019
Dryer has no heat. I discovered one of the 2 cycling thermostats has resistance of infinity when it should be zero. This thermostat is located inside the top front near the heating element connections. Part number on the thermostat is 3-3036-1. I don't know which part to order since there's no exact cross reference to this part number. Can you help?
For model number Maytag DE306
Hi John, sadly it is difficult to find the exact thermostat, does your temperature have the limit on it ? This may help narrow it down. Otherwise I would contact the manufacturer directly as our resources on this model are limited. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
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Ben
June 13, 2019
There seems to be 2 cycling thermostats side by side (each has three terminals) and wired together on this model. You also list two different cycling thermostats for this model. I bought the 140-20 one but i see there is a 150 -25 one listed as well. Why would this have two cycling thermostats? I can send a picture if needed.
For model number dg412 maytag gas dryer
Hello Ben, thank you for your question. Unfortunately, we're not sure why it has two of them. The unit was manufactured with the two cycling thermostats PartSelect Number: PS11757517 and PartSelect Number: PS11757518. I hope this helps!
