Part Location Diagram of W11415783 Whirlpool SEAL
See part 4 in the diagram
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer SEAL
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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SEAL W11415783

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4 Reviews

Rated by 12 customers 

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.

$ 17.91
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PartSelect Number PS12745423
Manufacturer Part Number W11415783
Manufactured by Whirlpool for Kenmore, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Roper
Product Description

SEAL Specifications

This seal comes with the adhesive backing.
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Part Videos

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer SEAL

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer SEAL
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Range.
Part# W11415783 replaces these:
337179, 347139, 502038, 50203800, W11414062, WP347139
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.0 / 5.0, 12 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Dryer heating up but clothes not drying
Removed back and then removed lint slide.
Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute.
Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24
years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal
  • Donald from Knoxville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dryer belt broke. During the effort to replace the belt it was noted that the lint trap housing seals were in need of replacement.
With the dryer taken apart to replace the broken belt it was obvious that the lint seals had not been working properly due to the excessive amount of lint covering all of the inside surfaces of the dryer. The belt idler pully had also moved from its normal mounting position and was laying at the bottom of the dryer. Because the lint had covered the bottom before the belt broke it was obvious to determine where the idler pully attached to the bottom.

Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.

While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.

Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:

I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.

The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.

The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.

The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.

The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.

The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.

Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.

With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.

The front of the dryer was attached .

The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.

The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.

The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.

The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.

Great parts and support Thankyou
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Benjamin from WELLS, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Blower flywheel needed replacement
After watching the U Tube video to replace flywheel, I had a appliance repairman come to my home to install flywheel. There was no way I would have been able to put the dryer back together without some help.
I want to say "Thank You" to the sales representative who assisted me when purchasing my items, she was very patient while running around the house looking for the model number of the dryer.
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Dryer Blower wheel
  • Gary from SAINT LOUIS, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal
  • Stephen from LOUISVILLE, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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chute wore out
I never received my part checked back after said hearing part had been shipped was told part was no longer available have called twice about my refund and not received that either
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal CHUTE
  • Robert from MACON, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would run with no heat
I watched all the videos with Steve. He was very helpful in his presentation of the repairs. Due to the age of the dryer every thing was replaced and was very easy to do. Thank you Steve and PartSelect for making these repairs possible and easy
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Idler Pulley Assembly SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal Rear Drum Felt Seal Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Two-Piece Split Ring Bearing
  • Gary from MOUNDSVILLE, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Motor failure
Used this resource and others' advice -thank you . Make sure to disconnect power first. I had replaced the rollers and tensioner a week earlier due to squeaking, but mine was the rare one where squeaking meant motor failure, so I had to place another parts order. The dryer was 19 years old, and my blower wheel did not simply 'unscrew with reverse threads'. During removal the blower wheel's plastic deformed, so had to do like someone else did and cut the rear shaft with a reciprocating saw. Just be careful not to damage the bulkhead's built-in bracket that anchors the rear of the motor. I think it was a 13/16" wrench that fit the blower wheel and I forget the size for the pulley nut on the front of the motor, but I suggest a deep socket since it held well. My best advice when dealing with a motor replacement is to ensure the blower wheel wheel will separate successfully from the motor before placing your parts order should it be a stubborn removal. Good luck.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Blower wheel SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal Blower Motor Shaft Seal Front Top Lock Drive Motor with Pulley
  • James from COTTONWOOD, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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flame fadedout after unit got hot; problem turned out to be the solenoid coils
removed frt & rear panels & drum and lint chute for seal replacement replaced these components, problem didn't go away, ordered & replaced both gas valve coils (m series coil kit) problem solved
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Lint Trap Housing Seal Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • David from Adkins, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer drum not turning and no air circulating
replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.
Other Parts Used:
Clamp-Motor Idler Pulley Assembly Rear Drum Support Roller Kit SEAL Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Clamp-Motor (W/Shield) Lint Trap Housing Seal Blower Motor Shaft Seal Rear Drum Felt Seal Drive Motor with Pulley
  • Eric from Fort Dodge, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
34 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loud noise, metal shreds in lint catcher
I took the long way around and removed the back with the nutdriver (8mm), unscrewed the lint catcher from the top and back (phillips). From there, I reached around and unscrewed the support brackets (9/16"). Once I confirmed the problem, I ordered the parts. There was really nothing wrong with the belt or pulley, but considering its age, I figured it was easier to replace now while I already had it apart.

Once I received the parts (about 3 days), I removed the front of the dryer by popping the top of the cabinet off, and the kick plate at the bottom with a flat screwdriver. Then, I removed the two screws holding up the door at the bottom, and the two holding it from the inside top. Once the front came off, I removed the idler pulley from the bottom, and the drum fell out. I was left with an empty cabinet with the exception of the motor.

I replaced the tri-rings on the support shafts, which was the most time consuming part of the whole ordeal. Those buggers are tight. I ratcheted the support brackets back on , removed the belt from around the drum and replaced it with the new one. I added the idler pulley back in, placed the drum against the back, and hooked the belt back around the motor. I also replaced the lint seal that goes from the drum to the catcher before putting it all back together.

I wish all machines were as easy as this dryer to repair.
Other Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly Rear Drum Support Roller Kit SEAL Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Mandie from Lewisville, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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