11028002010 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.

Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.

Safety First unplug unit, close water valves, remove upper panel with a 1/4 inch socket. Remove two screws holding the valve unplug 2 wires and replaced valve with the new one
And very impressed with the fast quick delivery of the part thank you very much

I drained the machine and pulled it away from the wall.Then I disconnected the drain hose and removed the back panel.Next,I removed the three screws holding the pump in place and disconnected the power plug from the motor.I then removed the short drain hose from the pump.Installation was the opposite of the removal sequence,and the machine worked fine right after I was done.The new part was identical the the old one,and the job was a snap.

Took off washer body 6 screws
Took off old sensor installed new
Very simple and smooth

Turn off the water. Disconnect both hoses. Remove the plug from the outlet. Remove five screws with a nut driver from the back panel. Remove the back panel. Remove two screws from the cold water valve. Pulled out the old valve. Install new valve with the two screws. Reinstall back panel with the five screws. Reset codes to the washer. Tested out washer. Works fine.

Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.

I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.

Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws.
Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.

Watched video and followed instructions. Removed rods from top cups, laid washer on its side and pulled them out. Put new rods thru, stood washer up and hooked them in. Was pretty easy, tube heavy but I'm 52 and I did it myself.
My only problem is there's no springs anywhere attaching rods to tub and I cannot find any info on 1. IF I need them 2. What kind I need. I sent email to partselect last week inquiring and still waiting to hear.