66513192K902 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed old tine rows and replaced with the new parts. No tools were needed. Each was replaced one at a time so the old ones could serve as a model for how the new ones were inserted and attached. Not much more complicated than changing a light bulb. Parts appear to be good original equipment quality but quite pricy for these very simple pieces.

Removed the old hose, after loosing metal looking rings. Installed new hose ad finally tight firmly the looking rings, using wrench and socket.

I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

Pulled dishwasher out from under the counter, removed faulty seal, installed new seal. Easy to understand directions are on web site.

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

Follow the u tube instruction. Replacing the pump was very simple and easy. The hard part was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet and back in again.

The video included with this part is perfect. Unplug the dishwasher, take off the front trim piece, remove the drain hose from the pump, unclip the power, press the little clip that holds the pump in while turning it counter clockwise to remove. Then just do that in the opposite order to put the new one in. Just make sure you hear it click when you twist the new one on so you know the clip has engaged. Super easy.

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

12 screws remove door outside panel unplug wire remove 6 mounting screw remove old unit put new unit in place put 6 small mounting screws back plug wire in put front door panel in place put 12 door screws in your done now you can start and test run

Removed front instrument cover. Removed latch assembly. Tried to fix it . No luck. Ordered new latch assembly. Came in from partsselect in 3 days. Installed new latch. Replaced cover.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.